What a Year

I had my most successful day bouldering the other day, I don't know whether it was the conditions or I have improved but somehow I managed to busk my way up two 7a's. This got me thinking about my year in climbing and how many good days out I have had.

I only really started bouldering outside earlier this year, before that I spent most time trad climbing even up until the start of the summer trad climbing was my main thing. It was only really when I moved back to the Moors I started indulging in outdoor bouldering and this became my main focus. I had many good times trad climbing at the start of the year doing my boldest and hardest trad routes to date. Then I moved back from university to the Moors, having no partner at the start of the summer I just went out bouldering by myself. Then I met Rob and we continued to visit crags where routes were either too short or too hard to trad climb so we just ended up bouldering. Then winter came and it got really cold so we started heading to the grit for some super sticky bouldering. I have dabbled in trad climbing since I left university but its mainly been easy routes. As the winter went on I got really psyched for climbing hard and without the faff of trad climbing. I do feel like it has paid off and I look forward trying to transfer the bouldering strength into trad climbing over the next year.

Frozen Ground Photo by Me

With my new found love for bouldering Font 7a became my new goal. With this in mind I spent a lot of time traipsing up to the Wainstones to try The Prow as I was hoping this would be my first 7a. Then on one of the freezing Brimham days Rob climbed Whiskey Galore, I had given up at this point I was cold and couldn't get the sequence down. Ready to leave but motivated by Rob's ascent I put my shoes on and tried again. After a few goes the sequence was starting to work, but I was still struggling to get my left foot placement solid as it was blind and I couldn't feel my toes. On what must have been my 20th go the foot held, I matched the sloper moved my right hand to the thumb sprag, then I got my left leg high and started to rock up it was in the bag. Then I slipped. I caught my self on the sloper and thumb sprag but couldn't recover dropping it massively frustrated I took a rest. Thinking of giving up as my feet were numb Rob was really helpful and super keen for me to do it. Motivated I shoed up chalked up and went for another go. The moves flowed and before I knew it I had one hand on the top trying to keep cool I mantled over the top it was done. I had done 7a.

Making the moves on Whiskey Galore Photo by Robs Shoe

I was expecting that to be a fluke and it would be another year before I managed another 7a. But I had been trying Pair in a Cubicle also at Brimham. It is the essence of gritstone in one problem, one good hold and every move is harder and slopier than the last, until you get to the blank heartbreaking top out. I think I have had about 4 sessions on it including one demoralising and skin destroying session with Freddie where I got so close but ultimately ended up just ruining my hands. A couple of days after Christmas the conditions were looking amazing and me and Rob and both got new pads so once again we headed to Brimham to test them out. We spent a couple of hours failing to highball and made tracks towards Pair in a Cubicle. We got there and a couple of guys were already trying it after watching Rob fail to do the sit start to Murky Rib I decided to jump on Pair in a Cubicle. I got some helpful new beta from the guys trying it, it was only a change of hand position but it worked. I had a couple of failed goes then watched Rob and the guys trying it, feeling psyched but rested I jumped on. By now I had the start nailed the the moves after just flowed and I had both my hands on the top, slapping wildly but still kind of falling my hands moved slowly to the back. then I was in balance. I had groveled enough it was done, I don't know what I did different but I topped out in slight disbelief and relief that I didn't have to do it again anytime soon.

One of the failed attempts Photo by Rob

Rob kept trying getting guttingly close so many times, I had some lunch and chatted with a climbing legend for a bit. I kept spotting trying to return the favour to Rob for what he did for me on Whiskey. But after a few hours I wanted to give something else a go and having seen a few people do Murky Rib sit start I thought I'd give it a shot. Its a soft 7a being only one move but its really knacky and slightly painful. Surprisingly I was making progress and found myself on the moves you start from standing on, thinking I had it in the bag I got a hand on the top. Then the scrittle fought back and my left hand detached. Go after go the scrittle kept scuppering my ascent my skin was fading but not as badly as Robs, who was suffering with the same issue I had on Pair in a Cubicle when I was trying it with Freddie. The light was fading we had been in the same spot for 3 hours I decided to give Murky Rib SS one last go. Grimacing through the heinous first pull and doing the same sequence through the regular route I got my left hand on the top scrittle then matched, trying to sort my footwork out I swung. Clinging to the scrittle I was smearing with all the grace of a dying fly, until I eventually grabbed the jug at the back I pulled myself up. Jumping back down I was elated I had somehow blagged 2 7a's. What a day. What a year.

Rob in some skin related pain Photo by Me

I have had so many good days its hard to select my favourites but yesterday is definitely one, although I was a little gutted Rob didn't manage Pair in a Cubicle I met a legend and climbed 2 7a's, one of my best days on grit by far. I know climbing isn't about numbers so I shouldn't care but climbing is about the journey from impossible to possible and all 3 7a's have done that for me. They are also really cool problems. I enjoyed the times tradding at the start of the year doing some really cool routes but I never really physically pushed myself so each achievement was a mental one. But now I have managed a 3 7as, an achievement I didn't believe would happen last year, an achievement I didn't think I'd have the strength or skill for. So psyched to keep it going next year, I feel thankful for having good people to climb with, having an abundance of amazing things to climb in the UK and having the ability and time to go climb. Whether its wandering on the moors. loosing skin on the grit or getting scared on a multipich in Wales or the Lakes. I am stoked for another year of climbing.

Rescued

I have always thought of myself as quite a bold climber, I've never really minded runouts and occasionally enjoy soloing. But the other day I reached my limit. On a VS.

A few of the folk from the Uni club had organised a weekend winter walking trip to the Lakes. I was stoked to join and helped manipulate them into fully utilising the weather and location for some multi-pitch climbing. The hut was in Borrowdale, home to some of the most accessible rock in the Lakes. I had to work on the Saturday so drove over on the evening to join them. They had spent the day on Sharp Edge on Blencathra in classic Lakes conditions. It was great to see everyone and spent the evening catching up and organising the next days climbing. As it rained through the night I recommended Shepards Crag as I heard it was quick drying and knew it was roadside. So on the Sunday morning a few groups headed over to do Troutdale Pinnacle and Myself, Freddie, Cindy, Edwin and Andy headed to Shepards. Freddie, Cindy and Andy made tracks for Little Chamonix whilst me and Edwin went for a scramble up Jackdaw ridge. Upon return to the ground we headed to North Buttress to look for dryish rock unfortunately it was a little damp so we headed to Brown slabs. Arriving at the slabs the base was dryish so we set off scrambling up Brown Slabs Direct, a classically polished diff that became wetter the higher up we got adding for a spicy scramble indeed.

Majestic Borrowdale Photo by Me

We decided to leave the climbing for a bit hoping the rock might dry out. After lunch and another run up Jackdaw Ridge to take photos of the group on Little Cham we decided to give Eve a shot. Its VS (5.7ish in American) which according to the guidebook was quite serious. But knowing we can climb a couple grades above we felt confident and the first pitch was dry. Edwin flew up it placing no gear and quickly established the belay, joining him I set off on the second pitch.

I ambled up the groove taking time to place gear due to the rumours of a lack of it on the slab. After placing a solid nut I embarked on the moves onto the slab a really cool little sequence . Once round the arete and on the slab I noticed the holds had the same muddy greasy texture I had found on Brown Slabs. Placing a very dodgy cam I looked to the point at which the belay was supposedly located and set that as my target. Moving across the slab something felt wrong maybe I was too low or maybe the wet rock was knocking my confidence. Sequence after sequence of utterly harrowing greasy desperate moves got me ever closer to the arete with the gear getting further and further away. Standing on a good foothold beneath an overlap I cautiously stood up, I was now in soloing territory. I couldn't fall. Feeling around for a crack or a pocket for gear I was utterly demoralised when the search became fruitless. The rock felt a little drier above the overlap but the moves looked awkward and my shoes were soaked from the slab. I headed towards the arete still beneath the overlap searching in vain for some gear. I reached the precipice looking down into this gully and with no gear within 10 metres and no good gear since the groove I stood there. Balancing one foot on the arete and with the other on a flat but wet hold. I broke down. I was done. I couldn't climb on. I couldn't fall. I was stranded.

After the mental torture of the slab I couldn't face anymore wet runout climbing. I just stood there on the arete contemplating my choices. One idea was to use the rope drag to lower myself down into the gully hoping the rope doesn't flick round and swing me to the ground. I looked up at the belay it couldn't have been more than 3 metres of climbing to the end of the pitch but I just couldn't take it. I have done bolder climbs, I have done wetter climbs and I have done harder climbs. But this is the only time I have ever got myself into such a situation of helplessness. It was not hard climbing just wet, greasy and insecure. Standing on the arete my mind was racing, one minute I was thinking this is safe this is chill the other oh shit I'm going to die. I tried placing some gear in my vicinity nothing was good or inspiring. So I stood there on my island of balance, fear and insecurity.

Freddie Cindy and Erskine on Little Cham Photo By Me

Whilst I was having my mini epic Freddie was dispatching Adam the neighbouring well protected HVS. He had been watching me sketching my way through the wetness and by the time I was on the arete he was nearing the top. He offered to through me one of the ropes once he'd set up and anchor I quickly accepted. I don't know how long I stood there it could've been minutes it could've been hours it was tenuous just standing. Freddie pulled up one of his twin ropes attached a krab and started swinging it towards me. Try after try and it still wasn't within arms reach my position was so precarious I couldn't do anything to help. The pendulum of safety was swinging above my head, like a clock ticking, teasing me I couldn't reach maybe I wouldn't reach and my time was up. It swung left then right scraping the rock then it landed just above my head. I grabbed it. Clipped in. I was safe.

It was over. After a brief attempt at climbing the rest on top rope I asked Freddie to lower me down I was mentally exhausted. Standing on the ground my head was stirring I was feeling embarrassed that I had to be rescued on a VS, annoyed that I couldn't make it to the belay, relieved to be on the ground and thankful to everyone for helping me.

Like a crap version of the Avengers. The rescue team


Looking back on it a day later I am still unsure of what went on. I don't know whether its my recent lack of trad climbing, the wetness of the rock or I went off route. It may have been a combination of them all. It was a good life experience and I'm glad I made a good decision and didn't die. I'm still annoyed that I failed on a VS but it was a good reminder climbing is a dangerous activity and even easy routes can be sketchy.  I am thankful I had friends to rescue and help and I will return to try the route again on a drier day. It was a very successful day of not dying and we all returned laden with more life experience. Isn't that what climbing is about?