Its Friday, I'm on the train to Manchester happy about my destination, less so about the journey. As the train pierces through the countryside I see the Moors out my window, the dying bracken enclosed by the rich blue autumn sky and the rich green pastures that cover the ground. I know in a few hours I'll be passing through the Pennines. Oh to be on the grit or sandstone on a day like today with skin hardened from the cold and spirits lifted by the sun.
The recent memory of last nights climbing at Clemitts offers brief respite from the drudgery of the train. A glorious evening with the dying light laced with the smoke of the heather that burns so violently on the horizon. But I look back down and I'm on the train, I hear the drunken voices of teenagers heading to York for the sole purpose of drinking. What a use of day like this. Still I'm on a train throwing away one of the few perfect days you have in a British autumn.
But the goal is justified I'm heading to Manchester to drive to Wales with my University Mountaineering Club, a good reason I'm sure but it still feels like a wasted day. I wish I was out. I suppose this is what it'd like to have a job. Sitting all day, just sitting slowly aging. Whilst the golden opportunity slips away and the dream of climbing on a crisp sunny day becomes that a dream, a wistful myth of the days that could have been. Oh to feel the bite of the grit or sandstone. Oh to be bouldering, tradding or walking. Oh to be out
Friday, 27 October 2017
Sunday, 1 October 2017
Moor in Depth
Seen as my little blog on the moors was my most popular, I decided to follow it up with one a little more in depth and brimming with anecdotes. Enjoy what may end up reading like a selection of short stories.
Scugdale- Crisp sandstone, fleeting glimpses of golden light and the ever changing temperature of midsummer England. This is a roadside crag, well kind of. Its 10 minutes from the village of Swainby up a single track road that definitely warrants a hefty e grade. Then a pleasant 10 minute hike up the hill to the most popular end of the crag, a virtually continuous band of high moor sandstone called Scots crag. Because of the height almost all routes are amenable to solo above pads which is what we went for. A warm up was in order and as Rob read the guidebook I took a scramble up a little VS( I say little the tallest this crag gets is 10 metres), which been the moors was pretty stiff for for VS slightly overhanging and with some scrittly slopers it was the perfect warm up. Eve right hand is a one of the most aesthetic lines I've seen, an arete that would be the most classic of classics were it in the Peak. Sublime laybacking and then a slightly awkward highstep that coupled with the unpleasant landing really makes you question your life choices, but I'm young dumb and full of uhh fun? So I pressed on stood up latched the jug and went along on my merry business. Warmed by the intermittent sun and brimming with stoke we managed to polish off almost 30 routes all perfect portraits in sandstone. After a couple of hours I was feeling strong and like I could onsight Indian Face so I set off up Bonzo a mild HVS that was a supposed one move wonder. Which it was but it just wasn't the move I was expecting, so when I pulled through what I thought was the hard move I found myself stranded half way up the wall. With my only options for escape being either upwards or doing a reverse high step mantle. Obviously I chose to stand there for about a week chalking up, feeling holds, getting a tan, having fun and hoping the move wouldn't seem so daunting. Eventually I set off on what turned out to be a slightly smeary slightly crimpy ladder to the top. Elated I told Rob how great it was. I don't think he believed me and declined to follow suit. After what seemed like an age but also a second it was time to go, fingers tender from the warm love of the sandstone and minds racing with the distance covered we left. Many things to return to and many things to repeat.
Highcliffe Nab- The greenest, dirtiest and hardest crag within view of a Lidl. Its the classic hard crag of the area for the generations preceding me most of the hardest routes are there. But I didn't go for them on my first visit I was there to do some bouldering and easy soloing. Which was lovely apart from the block I was bouldering on was littered with broken glass thanks to the generosity of some local neds. The soloing was pleasant and I did the classic Severe of Highcliffe crack which is just pure pleasantness. But the line that drew my eye was a HVS/E1 offwidth called Scarecrow Crack done in the 50's it has the ever endearing appeal of a classic struggle. So returning with my dad to belay, my big cam and an insufficient warm up I set off. Pulling on I really should've taken note of how gritty, sandy and slightly damp the rock felt but psyche is an overruling power. So after some overly dynamic moves and a gear placement I reached the base of the offwidthy bit. Already pumped I switched from the comfort of the chicken wing(climbing technqiue makes your arm look like a chicken wing) to a layback because my best gear placement was where the best chicken wing was. With the ever growing pump rendering my arms almost useless I udged upwards inch by inch legs scrabbling their way to follow the chicken wing that had pulled me that far. Then the crack ran out and although I could reach the ledge it was a) sandy b)green c) wet and I was a) pumped b) stuck and c)f**cked. I tried my hardest to adjust my hand to take the strain and allow a possible mantel onto the ledge, with my hand finally in an acceptable place I faced the next issue, my right leg was stuck in the crack. So trying to do it in one swift motion I tried to rotate into a layback freeing my leg and allowing me a better position to mantel. It didn't work. I threw my leg out with too much force and I could feel myself losing contact. Flying headfirst towards the slab my first thought was my helmets in my rucksack and I hope that cams high enough to stop me decking. Luckily it was, unluckily in the fight to stop the fall I'd locked the chicken wing so tight I still have a scar on my arm 3 months later. Annoyed at myself for falling so close to a rest I went and set up an abseil to retrieve the gear. As I lowered down the grassy slope I could only think one thing. Thank god I fell off. The top was dripping also it was vertical grass and the top crack was to wide for any of my cams. So although the fall was unpleasant at least I didn't have to solo up another offwidth and then climb the wet grass equivalent of the Meltdown. A great day was had by all it had everything bad climbing, pump and a fall. Its one to remember I didn't land on Dad, aren't cams amazing and offwidths are rad.
Park Nab- The best crag in the UK. Well its not but it is pretty cool, a personal favourite because its where I started climbing and it gives a good basis for comparison as the rock doesn't change(editors note- yes it does half this crag fell down in 1994). I've soloed most of the routes that I used to top rope so that's good progress. Well almost there is one I thought impossible I couldn't even top rope it, its called Pinnacle Face. It's an eliminaty kind of thing in the fact you could fridge hug it all the way up, but ethically that's not the correct way to do it, but you can use a bit of the right arete here and there. Anyway I did mange to top rope it a few times last summer but I still haven't got round to either soloing it or leading it. I think the start move is a British 5c slab move then it gets way easier but its slightly overhanging and often green at the top. I have set off leading it but I'd spent to long getting pumped on a self imposed boulder eliminate that whilst amazing was pretty pointless and I had to bail on Pinnacle face. Another project of mine is a great bouldery roof that I tried top roping last year called Dangle I think it gets e2 6a and I could not for the life of me figure out how to pull through the roof. This year I flashed it I suppose that's either progress or luck. But it is a place I go not for the route, grade, line or send its usually to spend time with my Dad as he enjoys the top roping there and I think what he gets is nostalgia and its the same for me, the rose tinted goggles at the routes he used to solo and the enjoyment he gets just from top roping them. I think that's why I have shifted my view of the place to stop going there for a specific challenge just go enjoy the experience and be.
Kay Nest- I think this is one of the most remote crags in the Moors. You park at Chop Gate village hall walk through some fields some containing bulls and some contain dead sheep. Then you head over the hill and down into Tripsdale. Its an idyllic Moors valley crowned with heather, an aterial stream running through it and the crag shrouded by trees with boulders littering the ground below it. We didn't bother heading to the crag although there look to be some good lines we were there for the bouldering as it looked stellar. Myself and Rob were thoroughly psyched by having this massive playground of boulders all to ourselves. Warming up on this slab the rock was achingly beautiful the most fine grained sandstone I have seen only shrouded in a little scrittle it was a brilliant warm up. Our sights were firmly set on the ship stone a great 5 meter high block with perfect face climbing and as it turns out the worlds hardest font 5 boulder problem. From a marginal matched crimp utilising the sloper for your feet you lunge upwards to a less than perfect hold. This 5 felt harder than a 6c I did later in the day, it took me so long to get it I was pumped out my mind trying to do the final moves. But somehow managing to claw back any remnants of strength I managed to flop over the top, amazing boulder though. After we had pretty much completed the east face of the ship we headed deep into the woods in search of boulders. We got lost, utilising my never ending psyche as a navigational tool meant we went too deep into the woods. We did see a 8b boulder problem and an unclimbed arete that looks like the sweetest line in the moors. After running down hill through bracken, getting attacked by trees and eventually me running straight into a waist high bog we found the boulders we were after. There was brilliant slabby arete that required a committing pop for the top, lying next to the reason I had bushwacked so hard a 6c boulder that utilised my two favourite types of climbing monos and aretes. I expected a serious battle but I got it 2nd go which was great, if not slightly disappointing for you the reader and me the climber. I wanted a fight, I wanted to dislocate my middle finger trying to hard but oh well I suppose you do have to win some. Walking back unsure of the time that had past and slowly edging towards the civilised world, I felt like we were leaving somewhere special. Somewhere you can return in 20 years and it won't have changed, sure the lines may get harder but the magic won't leave.
Wainstones- Its the crag most people know and it is the classic moors crag steeped in history with problems and lines from John Redhead to Steve McClure, containing some classic features such as the Sphinx, Steeple and Needle. Its even good enough for the outdoor centres to come and let kids top rope classics in muddy boots( but that's a different gripe). I have been there for easy soloing and some picnics as a kid but I'd never been to boulder. Redheads roof immediately caught my eye like it says on the tin its a roof and to get over it you need to mantle using a decent foothold but a very indecent crimp, I couldn't get it (also if you haven't seen it watch clown assending a great if mental film about John Redhead). We still managed to tick the classic slabs and overhangs there is such a variety its hard to get bored there, because if you're bored of the bouldering there is some amazing trad routes to try. Anyway under the guise of going to look at the holds we wandered down to The Prow a stunning 7a boulder problem that looked nails, however upon closer inspection I noticed the holds were massive and I could actually do a move or two it just became crossed the line from impossible to possible. Upon my next visit I headed towards the crag facing the Wainstones, it is called Cold Moor. Where there as an abundance of great quiet lines, I did the most sublime HS called Beak Ridge great movement in a sublime position. But that was just a warm up for the 7a, where once the cow pat directly under the starting hold had been dealt with I managed to make the amazing progress of one extra move. Baby steps. Its really not my forte big powerful moves in roofs but it looks so good and feels just the right side of possible that I am willing to spend even more time projecting it. Which for someone as impatient as me is a big statement. There isn't much to say about this place that hasn't been said its classic, its varied and its popular(well for the Moors).
Tranmire- The latest of the crags I have visited my initial thoughts were the main crag is wet glad I came for the boulders. But the wall that immediately caught mine and Robs eye was the short buttress next to the wall at the north end of the main crag. A enigmatic blank wall flanked by a couple of cracks and laced with a break and a flake. I couldn't work out the direct start so I approached it from the crack on the right a little HVS called Thug leaning across from a good jug I engaged the flake, crimp crimp swing the foot out then latch the jug. Great only the top bit to do, ohh the holds have ran out quick bail, jump down to the pads hope they don't slide down the hill again, safe on the pad I begin to relax then it slides down the hill. This stunning crag and boulder field has the most classic of all Moors problems. The guidebook says pull jump or dyno to the lip then beach whale to finish. If that doesn't make you want to climb it I don't what would. An elegant hanging wedge is gained by a reach for me then once purchase was gained, I flopped onto the slab and with moves reminiscent of a 90's breakdancer I wiggled your way up hill (if you would like to see the footage get in contact its short but sweet). A brilliant crag with some definite gems and some projects to return for. What other reason do you want to go than worming your way up hill. Poetic prose cannot define or describe the technique needed but a fun day was had so we have succeeded.
Well I hope you enjoyed that. If you have any questions or would like some more info on the Moors( or just want to see the video of that problem at tranmire) get in touch at joe.foster59@yahoo.co.uk.
Scugdale- Crisp sandstone, fleeting glimpses of golden light and the ever changing temperature of midsummer England. This is a roadside crag, well kind of. Its 10 minutes from the village of Swainby up a single track road that definitely warrants a hefty e grade. Then a pleasant 10 minute hike up the hill to the most popular end of the crag, a virtually continuous band of high moor sandstone called Scots crag. Because of the height almost all routes are amenable to solo above pads which is what we went for. A warm up was in order and as Rob read the guidebook I took a scramble up a little VS( I say little the tallest this crag gets is 10 metres), which been the moors was pretty stiff for for VS slightly overhanging and with some scrittly slopers it was the perfect warm up. Eve right hand is a one of the most aesthetic lines I've seen, an arete that would be the most classic of classics were it in the Peak. Sublime laybacking and then a slightly awkward highstep that coupled with the unpleasant landing really makes you question your life choices, but I'm young dumb and full of uhh fun? So I pressed on stood up latched the jug and went along on my merry business. Warmed by the intermittent sun and brimming with stoke we managed to polish off almost 30 routes all perfect portraits in sandstone. After a couple of hours I was feeling strong and like I could onsight Indian Face so I set off up Bonzo a mild HVS that was a supposed one move wonder. Which it was but it just wasn't the move I was expecting, so when I pulled through what I thought was the hard move I found myself stranded half way up the wall. With my only options for escape being either upwards or doing a reverse high step mantle. Obviously I chose to stand there for about a week chalking up, feeling holds, getting a tan, having fun and hoping the move wouldn't seem so daunting. Eventually I set off on what turned out to be a slightly smeary slightly crimpy ladder to the top. Elated I told Rob how great it was. I don't think he believed me and declined to follow suit. After what seemed like an age but also a second it was time to go, fingers tender from the warm love of the sandstone and minds racing with the distance covered we left. Many things to return to and many things to repeat.
Highcliffe Nab- The greenest, dirtiest and hardest crag within view of a Lidl. Its the classic hard crag of the area for the generations preceding me most of the hardest routes are there. But I didn't go for them on my first visit I was there to do some bouldering and easy soloing. Which was lovely apart from the block I was bouldering on was littered with broken glass thanks to the generosity of some local neds. The soloing was pleasant and I did the classic Severe of Highcliffe crack which is just pure pleasantness. But the line that drew my eye was a HVS/E1 offwidth called Scarecrow Crack done in the 50's it has the ever endearing appeal of a classic struggle. So returning with my dad to belay, my big cam and an insufficient warm up I set off. Pulling on I really should've taken note of how gritty, sandy and slightly damp the rock felt but psyche is an overruling power. So after some overly dynamic moves and a gear placement I reached the base of the offwidthy bit. Already pumped I switched from the comfort of the chicken wing(climbing technqiue makes your arm look like a chicken wing) to a layback because my best gear placement was where the best chicken wing was. With the ever growing pump rendering my arms almost useless I udged upwards inch by inch legs scrabbling their way to follow the chicken wing that had pulled me that far. Then the crack ran out and although I could reach the ledge it was a) sandy b)green c) wet and I was a) pumped b) stuck and c)f**cked. I tried my hardest to adjust my hand to take the strain and allow a possible mantel onto the ledge, with my hand finally in an acceptable place I faced the next issue, my right leg was stuck in the crack. So trying to do it in one swift motion I tried to rotate into a layback freeing my leg and allowing me a better position to mantel. It didn't work. I threw my leg out with too much force and I could feel myself losing contact. Flying headfirst towards the slab my first thought was my helmets in my rucksack and I hope that cams high enough to stop me decking. Luckily it was, unluckily in the fight to stop the fall I'd locked the chicken wing so tight I still have a scar on my arm 3 months later. Annoyed at myself for falling so close to a rest I went and set up an abseil to retrieve the gear. As I lowered down the grassy slope I could only think one thing. Thank god I fell off. The top was dripping also it was vertical grass and the top crack was to wide for any of my cams. So although the fall was unpleasant at least I didn't have to solo up another offwidth and then climb the wet grass equivalent of the Meltdown. A great day was had by all it had everything bad climbing, pump and a fall. Its one to remember I didn't land on Dad, aren't cams amazing and offwidths are rad.
Park Nab- The best crag in the UK. Well its not but it is pretty cool, a personal favourite because its where I started climbing and it gives a good basis for comparison as the rock doesn't change(editors note- yes it does half this crag fell down in 1994). I've soloed most of the routes that I used to top rope so that's good progress. Well almost there is one I thought impossible I couldn't even top rope it, its called Pinnacle Face. It's an eliminaty kind of thing in the fact you could fridge hug it all the way up, but ethically that's not the correct way to do it, but you can use a bit of the right arete here and there. Anyway I did mange to top rope it a few times last summer but I still haven't got round to either soloing it or leading it. I think the start move is a British 5c slab move then it gets way easier but its slightly overhanging and often green at the top. I have set off leading it but I'd spent to long getting pumped on a self imposed boulder eliminate that whilst amazing was pretty pointless and I had to bail on Pinnacle face. Another project of mine is a great bouldery roof that I tried top roping last year called Dangle I think it gets e2 6a and I could not for the life of me figure out how to pull through the roof. This year I flashed it I suppose that's either progress or luck. But it is a place I go not for the route, grade, line or send its usually to spend time with my Dad as he enjoys the top roping there and I think what he gets is nostalgia and its the same for me, the rose tinted goggles at the routes he used to solo and the enjoyment he gets just from top roping them. I think that's why I have shifted my view of the place to stop going there for a specific challenge just go enjoy the experience and be.
Kay Nest- I think this is one of the most remote crags in the Moors. You park at Chop Gate village hall walk through some fields some containing bulls and some contain dead sheep. Then you head over the hill and down into Tripsdale. Its an idyllic Moors valley crowned with heather, an aterial stream running through it and the crag shrouded by trees with boulders littering the ground below it. We didn't bother heading to the crag although there look to be some good lines we were there for the bouldering as it looked stellar. Myself and Rob were thoroughly psyched by having this massive playground of boulders all to ourselves. Warming up on this slab the rock was achingly beautiful the most fine grained sandstone I have seen only shrouded in a little scrittle it was a brilliant warm up. Our sights were firmly set on the ship stone a great 5 meter high block with perfect face climbing and as it turns out the worlds hardest font 5 boulder problem. From a marginal matched crimp utilising the sloper for your feet you lunge upwards to a less than perfect hold. This 5 felt harder than a 6c I did later in the day, it took me so long to get it I was pumped out my mind trying to do the final moves. But somehow managing to claw back any remnants of strength I managed to flop over the top, amazing boulder though. After we had pretty much completed the east face of the ship we headed deep into the woods in search of boulders. We got lost, utilising my never ending psyche as a navigational tool meant we went too deep into the woods. We did see a 8b boulder problem and an unclimbed arete that looks like the sweetest line in the moors. After running down hill through bracken, getting attacked by trees and eventually me running straight into a waist high bog we found the boulders we were after. There was brilliant slabby arete that required a committing pop for the top, lying next to the reason I had bushwacked so hard a 6c boulder that utilised my two favourite types of climbing monos and aretes. I expected a serious battle but I got it 2nd go which was great, if not slightly disappointing for you the reader and me the climber. I wanted a fight, I wanted to dislocate my middle finger trying to hard but oh well I suppose you do have to win some. Walking back unsure of the time that had past and slowly edging towards the civilised world, I felt like we were leaving somewhere special. Somewhere you can return in 20 years and it won't have changed, sure the lines may get harder but the magic won't leave.
Wainstones- Its the crag most people know and it is the classic moors crag steeped in history with problems and lines from John Redhead to Steve McClure, containing some classic features such as the Sphinx, Steeple and Needle. Its even good enough for the outdoor centres to come and let kids top rope classics in muddy boots( but that's a different gripe). I have been there for easy soloing and some picnics as a kid but I'd never been to boulder. Redheads roof immediately caught my eye like it says on the tin its a roof and to get over it you need to mantle using a decent foothold but a very indecent crimp, I couldn't get it (also if you haven't seen it watch clown assending a great if mental film about John Redhead). We still managed to tick the classic slabs and overhangs there is such a variety its hard to get bored there, because if you're bored of the bouldering there is some amazing trad routes to try. Anyway under the guise of going to look at the holds we wandered down to The Prow a stunning 7a boulder problem that looked nails, however upon closer inspection I noticed the holds were massive and I could actually do a move or two it just became crossed the line from impossible to possible. Upon my next visit I headed towards the crag facing the Wainstones, it is called Cold Moor. Where there as an abundance of great quiet lines, I did the most sublime HS called Beak Ridge great movement in a sublime position. But that was just a warm up for the 7a, where once the cow pat directly under the starting hold had been dealt with I managed to make the amazing progress of one extra move. Baby steps. Its really not my forte big powerful moves in roofs but it looks so good and feels just the right side of possible that I am willing to spend even more time projecting it. Which for someone as impatient as me is a big statement. There isn't much to say about this place that hasn't been said its classic, its varied and its popular(well for the Moors).
Tranmire- The latest of the crags I have visited my initial thoughts were the main crag is wet glad I came for the boulders. But the wall that immediately caught mine and Robs eye was the short buttress next to the wall at the north end of the main crag. A enigmatic blank wall flanked by a couple of cracks and laced with a break and a flake. I couldn't work out the direct start so I approached it from the crack on the right a little HVS called Thug leaning across from a good jug I engaged the flake, crimp crimp swing the foot out then latch the jug. Great only the top bit to do, ohh the holds have ran out quick bail, jump down to the pads hope they don't slide down the hill again, safe on the pad I begin to relax then it slides down the hill. This stunning crag and boulder field has the most classic of all Moors problems. The guidebook says pull jump or dyno to the lip then beach whale to finish. If that doesn't make you want to climb it I don't what would. An elegant hanging wedge is gained by a reach for me then once purchase was gained, I flopped onto the slab and with moves reminiscent of a 90's breakdancer I wiggled your way up hill (if you would like to see the footage get in contact its short but sweet). A brilliant crag with some definite gems and some projects to return for. What other reason do you want to go than worming your way up hill. Poetic prose cannot define or describe the technique needed but a fun day was had so we have succeeded.
Well I hope you enjoyed that. If you have any questions or would like some more info on the Moors( or just want to see the video of that problem at tranmire) get in touch at joe.foster59@yahoo.co.uk.
Wednesday, 13 September 2017
NYM Sandstone, Moor Than Meets The Eye
Like Font but hate slopers? Like Stanage but think 20 metres is too high, like granite but wish more holds broke on you. Then the North Yorkshire Moors is for you.
Okay I may be exaggerating about the breaking holds(although I won't say it hasn't happened) and yes it may be small but the climbing on the Moors is some of the best in country. Now a little context, why am I suddenly displaying an interest in this area. Well since finishing uni I am back home in the uneven job market of the North East and as you can tell by the last blog unsure of what I'm doing. So I have been spending as much time as possible getting out into the Moors usually bouldering as its easier and the crags really lend themselves to semi highballing. The North Yorkshire Moors is a national park south of Middlesbrough and north of Scarbrough mainly compromising of heather, sandstone outcrops, quaint villages and a crumbly coastline, its less than an hour from York and less than 2 from Sheffield or Manchester. Being on the right side of the Pennines means the weather is usually better than the Peak and Lakes and not being close to big cities means its often quieter than the Peak.
As an even youthier youth the Moors was my introduction to outdoor climbing heading up to the micro crag of Park Nab to top rope with the local scout group. This was our go to crag and occasionally we would head to Scugdale, a mini Burbage north with face after face of immaculate rock and uncomfortable landings. But we were top roping and although I enjoyed these days climbing wasn't high on my teenage priority list. Having discovered my love for climbing at uni, last summer a little wiser and a little older I returned to these little gems. Although it was great to be back I didn't have half the equipment or experiance I have now so I spent more time doing the easier solo, lowball or top roping session. Although I did manage to solo most of the routes that we used to top rope at Park Nab so it wasn't all bad.
But this summer armed with the shittest crash pad go outdoors had to offer(Freddie whom I bought it off) I have discovered some new crags, revisited old crags and with the benefit of comparisons (mainly to Peak crags) my eyes have opened to the monster climbing found within these short sandstone walls. Although I've had a couple of setbacks one been a whipper off a dank offwidth lmost landing on my Dads head and the other an unsuccessful attempt on a slabby wall climb that I deemed impossible as a youth. But apart from these and the whole reason for this shitshow of a blog is I've had some monster sessions on some of the greatest rock I've ever climbed on. Perhaps my best evening out was at Scugdale(Scots Crag) perfect weather and I got about 30 routes in. Its the perfect height 8mts at its highest so if you place a crash pad and don't fall off and you never need a rope. Its perfect there aren't many routes harder than E1 so perfect for the average climber. The solitude you get is amazing at such a lovely crag in thePeak you'd be fighting for routes with shitty sticks. Its a 10 minute walk in and you couldn't ask for a greater evening venue just to get some mileage in.
At the other end of the spectrum was a trip to the Wainstones the classic crag of the area with a fairly gentle 30 minute walking and some stellar classic routes one but the reason I've been there for is the amazing boulder problems. Blank slabs, dirty traverses, awful offwidths and one of the best f7as I've tried a super steep jug fest that is so proud and well worth calling in for. But the walk in is nothing compared to Kays Nest at around 50 minutes the walk in is worthy of the Lake District, but the bouldering is stunning and the setting is unrivalled. Perfect sandstone boulders with so many amenable problems and the recurring theme of the Moors solitude.
I've been climbing with a strong local climber called Rob who has been great company and provided the vital North Yorkshire Moors Bouldering guide. For those who don't mind the odd ground fall I'd recommend trying some of Franco's new lines he is really at the vanguard of Moors climbing. Okay his was a bit rambly but what I'm trying to say is get out to the Moors if you don't want to trek up to Northumberland but want some stellar sandstone or if you're bored of the crowds at Stanage and Almscliffe. Or just go because its Great.
Solitude, Sending, Sandstone.
Okay I may be exaggerating about the breaking holds(although I won't say it hasn't happened) and yes it may be small but the climbing on the Moors is some of the best in country. Now a little context, why am I suddenly displaying an interest in this area. Well since finishing uni I am back home in the uneven job market of the North East and as you can tell by the last blog unsure of what I'm doing. So I have been spending as much time as possible getting out into the Moors usually bouldering as its easier and the crags really lend themselves to semi highballing. The North Yorkshire Moors is a national park south of Middlesbrough and north of Scarbrough mainly compromising of heather, sandstone outcrops, quaint villages and a crumbly coastline, its less than an hour from York and less than 2 from Sheffield or Manchester. Being on the right side of the Pennines means the weather is usually better than the Peak and Lakes and not being close to big cities means its often quieter than the Peak.
 |
| Classic moors scene Photo By Me |
As an even youthier youth the Moors was my introduction to outdoor climbing heading up to the micro crag of Park Nab to top rope with the local scout group. This was our go to crag and occasionally we would head to Scugdale, a mini Burbage north with face after face of immaculate rock and uncomfortable landings. But we were top roping and although I enjoyed these days climbing wasn't high on my teenage priority list. Having discovered my love for climbing at uni, last summer a little wiser and a little older I returned to these little gems. Although it was great to be back I didn't have half the equipment or experiance I have now so I spent more time doing the easier solo, lowball or top roping session. Although I did manage to solo most of the routes that we used to top rope at Park Nab so it wasn't all bad.
 |
| Scugdale Sunset Photo By Me |
But this summer armed with the shittest crash pad go outdoors had to offer(Freddie whom I bought it off) I have discovered some new crags, revisited old crags and with the benefit of comparisons (mainly to Peak crags) my eyes have opened to the monster climbing found within these short sandstone walls. Although I've had a couple of setbacks one been a whipper off a dank offwidth lmost landing on my Dads head and the other an unsuccessful attempt on a slabby wall climb that I deemed impossible as a youth. But apart from these and the whole reason for this shitshow of a blog is I've had some monster sessions on some of the greatest rock I've ever climbed on. Perhaps my best evening out was at Scugdale(Scots Crag) perfect weather and I got about 30 routes in. Its the perfect height 8mts at its highest so if you place a crash pad and don't fall off and you never need a rope. Its perfect there aren't many routes harder than E1 so perfect for the average climber. The solitude you get is amazing at such a lovely crag in thePeak you'd be fighting for routes with shitty sticks. Its a 10 minute walk in and you couldn't ask for a greater evening venue just to get some mileage in.
 |
| Tripesdale Photo By Me |
At the other end of the spectrum was a trip to the Wainstones the classic crag of the area with a fairly gentle 30 minute walking and some stellar classic routes one but the reason I've been there for is the amazing boulder problems. Blank slabs, dirty traverses, awful offwidths and one of the best f7as I've tried a super steep jug fest that is so proud and well worth calling in for. But the walk in is nothing compared to Kays Nest at around 50 minutes the walk in is worthy of the Lake District, but the bouldering is stunning and the setting is unrivalled. Perfect sandstone boulders with so many amenable problems and the recurring theme of the Moors solitude.
 |
| The Prow f7a Photo By Rob |
Solitude, Sending, Sandstone.
Tuesday, 15 August 2017
So This Is Life Now
So this is life now. The memories of university are fading away and the lurking presence of the real world is hovering over me. The British summer is all it usually is, just glimpse's of sunshine followed by lashings of grey and wet. Holidays have came and went, the funds have dried up and I'm back in the familiarity of my parents home. What am I doing with my life?
The trip to Poland seems like a lifetime ago, a short family trip with the promise of some climbing in Avon Gorge has came and went, with any hopes of climbing quashed by the apparent British monsoon season. I am looking for a job, but what am I actually looking for? Ideally I want to spend as much time climbing as possible and any spare time playing guitar. But this is real life. No matter how many people say it, living off nothing and climbing all the time doesn't really work in the north of England. The crags are sporadic and the weather a depressing cycle of wet windy with the occasional glimpse of blue and gold, all the while repressing any notion of an all climbing lifestyle.
I am not good enough to spend all my time climbing, but that is the only way I'll get better. Its a paradox I'll have to overcome. I'd be lying if said I hadn't been able to get out all summer, I have had some good sessions in the moors. Mainly bouldering but I got a good session at Highcliffe Nab doing some trad with my dad. I got brutally spanked by a stiff HVS(low E1 same thing) called Scarecrow Crack a really fun overhanging offwidth, which spat my out within inches of the biggest ledge since Alex Honnold. Resulting in a substantial whipper, a slightly bemused father and a underlying frustration with my own ability.
So what am I doing. I am looking for a job, I'm trying to climb and I'm really trying to not get to frustrated at how dismal my climbing performance is or how soul destroying the weather is. I am getting on, I am getting through because whatever happens it was meant to happen. Everything works out in the end, as long as you try your best to do what you can.
So I'll climb. So I'll look for a job. This is life now.
The trip to Poland seems like a lifetime ago, a short family trip with the promise of some climbing in Avon Gorge has came and went, with any hopes of climbing quashed by the apparent British monsoon season. I am looking for a job, but what am I actually looking for? Ideally I want to spend as much time climbing as possible and any spare time playing guitar. But this is real life. No matter how many people say it, living off nothing and climbing all the time doesn't really work in the north of England. The crags are sporadic and the weather a depressing cycle of wet windy with the occasional glimpse of blue and gold, all the while repressing any notion of an all climbing lifestyle.
I am not good enough to spend all my time climbing, but that is the only way I'll get better. Its a paradox I'll have to overcome. I'd be lying if said I hadn't been able to get out all summer, I have had some good sessions in the moors. Mainly bouldering but I got a good session at Highcliffe Nab doing some trad with my dad. I got brutally spanked by a stiff HVS(low E1 same thing) called Scarecrow Crack a really fun overhanging offwidth, which spat my out within inches of the biggest ledge since Alex Honnold. Resulting in a substantial whipper, a slightly bemused father and a underlying frustration with my own ability.
So what am I doing. I am looking for a job, I'm trying to climb and I'm really trying to not get to frustrated at how dismal my climbing performance is or how soul destroying the weather is. I am getting on, I am getting through because whatever happens it was meant to happen. Everything works out in the end, as long as you try your best to do what you can.
So I'll climb. So I'll look for a job. This is life now.
Monday, 31 July 2017
Rock Climbing In The Polish Jura- A Tale Of Polish, Pierogis and Premium Lines Part 2
The towel was still there.
Safely back at our tent after the harrowing walk home we planned the next days climbing. We would do another route on Sokalica. So the next morning we got up and headed to the base of the climb. But the psyche was surprisingly low. So in stark contrast from normal behaviour we decided to leave the adventure and have a chilled day sport climbing. So that's what we did, we spent hours failing on nice 20m high sport climbs. But the need to do something cool on Sokolica was still gnawing away at us, so after lunch we headed up to the base. However there were a couple of guys starting up the route we had eyed up and they were going really slow. With us not knowing the Polish for we climb quicker we couldn't ask politely to push in front. Onto plan D there was a crag we hadn't been to called Brandysowa behind the campsite that had a supposed 3 star 6b+, heading down I was more psyched than Edwin who just seemed to want a grilled lunch. Upon arrival he was right to be less than psyched the first half was a chossy scramble, then about halfway up it flipped from chossy gully of death into hardcore limestone slab climbing. This coincided with where the route exited the trees and emerged into full sunshine. This also coincided with me remembering that I wasn't actually a good climber and that this was kind of hard. After relentlessly bashing my head against it I let Edwin have a go, after a while he raised the high point a bit but eventually accepted heat stroke based defeat. Once suitably organised at the base we raced back for the weekend grill at the campsite. Unfortunately it closed at 6pm, gutted we drowned our sorrows in pierogis and went for a walk to a nearby bat cave. Getting to the gates we discovered it was actually a proper tourist attraction and wasn't open at 10pm, 8 miles later we were back in the tent and suitably destroyed from our late night leg day.
As another day dawned and after the obligatory breakfast of scrambled eggs, coffee and banana cake was obliterated we received a message from Kasia (a Polish climber who we had met a couple of days prior). She said she would be climbing at a crag called Kula in Dolina Koblyanska and we may come. So we trotted off down the road which was a much easier path to follow in the light. Upon arrival at the crag she pointed us to 3 climbs she thought we would like. They were awesome, muddy, slabby and best of all short. For us British climbers anything over 18m is too much and we pump out. We nailed the 5+ and 6a in quick succesion then did the 6b after two goes. All the routes were great and the top was a mud bank to the final boulder and then the lower offs, which I enjoyed but Edwin almost got his new shoes dirty which would've been a disaster. After success at the crag we decided we wanted to get Shitzroy in as well. It was amazing. We later found out its called Gran Bolekowiche and its pretty much a scramble. I'd say it was a British grade of VDiff it isn't bolted but that doesn't matter because soloing it is pretty safe, just be careful of the ants on the way down. We had a much needed lie down after and decided to try and climb a couple of routes. I dogged my way up something 6cish. I want to blame the pressure of the crowd watching for me blowing the onsight but I'm just crap. We also managed to find the worlds most polished climb it was practically marble but juggy and fun. In the UK it would definitely be a trad route but here it had a bolt every metre or so. Still unsure of bolting routes that could be done with gear hmm ethics. Unfortunately for this blog the walk back was uneventful mainly due to the remembrance of head torches.
On our exploration day we had scrambled to the top of this crag in Dolina Koblyanska with a cross on top, we went to have a look at the valley from a good vantage point. We could see a ton of killer lines and a months worth of objectives. There was also an amazing looking line up the Cross Crag or Zabikon as it was actually called. So on the Monday we made the trip down to that line, its a fairly pleasant 4 that once again could of been done on trad gear, but we were on holiday so bolts make for a more chilled atmosphere. The bolts also meant I could race up the first couple of pitches and set up the belay before the final cool pitch on the main head wall. Edwin's amazing route reading lead him astray on the second pitch and found himself on a really cool and exposed 5, which was super chill easy and fun but wasn't technically on route. But once again we were on holiday so no need to stick religiously to the route(this doesn't mean I didn't rip into him for his route reading skills, he didn't hear the end of it).
From the top of Zabikon you can see this perfect blank piece of limestone. Psyched by the idea of desperate limestone blankness we headed over. Obviously the first thing I went for was the grotty hand crack and offwidth in the corner, both routes were bolted, once again unsure of this ethically but it made for a new experience. Note to those interested, limestone and gritstone offwidths are chalk and cheese, there are near to no rests on limestone as you just keep slipping back down but you get to keep all your skin so its not all bad. The hand crack was great fun and once again even more slippery than Michael Gove. Crisis happened when I got to a crucial jam and shoved my hand behind me for some chalky goodness, only to realise my chalkbag was closed. Unable to open it I just had to bite down and power through. Both routes were about 5 and would make pretty sound VS's. Turning our attention back to the blank face we picked the easiest line which came out at about 7a. Super polished and super fun I managed my hardest clip ever, somehow managing to clip a bolt of a two finger pocket with super skatey feet not a bad effort for a crap climber. Using team dog tactics we managed to push through to the top after an hours work. Then it started spitting which was all the encouragement we needed to go for pizza and beer.
On the Tuesday we went for our final trip over to Dolina Koblyanska to meet Kasia and Ana, they took us to a shady crag which was perfect on such a warm day. I started off by scrambling up this 4+ chimney in my approach shoes(La Sportiva TX4's for those interested). We then spent the rest of th day some cool if slightly chossy routes, before I ended getting really pissed off at a 6C+ I couldn't do in full sun. Why am I so shit? Finishing the day with a barefoot scramble up another 4, this with only minor ant attacks and me kicking a rock on the walk back down was a great end to the trip.
Back to the point of this blog, reviewing the Polish climbing areas. So my overall opinion on my trip to the Jura, its really good. The rock may not be perfect and there isn't the abundance of hard climbs like there is in Spain but its a really good alternative. I like to compare the rock to Peak Limestone but a little bit better, its not perfect but it still provides a great adventure. The climbing overall is perfect for someone operating in the average 6a sort of grade, somehow all objectives we set ourselves was amenable if a little challenging at times, making it perfect for us average climbers. The weather at this time of year is all so much more bearable than it would have been in Spain, its on a similar latitude to Font but being more continental its a bit less damp. The people are so friendly and the food and accommodation is the perfect price for a climber especially been so close to the climbing.
So Poland it may not top everyone's list of the best sport climbing destinations. But if you're on a budget and looking for somewhere different its a great shout. Like Peak Limestone but with more easy classics a little more polished and so much rock you'll be spoiled for choice. If you want Pierogis, Pizza, Pivo and Perfect Projects Poland is for you.
Safely back at our tent after the harrowing walk home we planned the next days climbing. We would do another route on Sokalica. So the next morning we got up and headed to the base of the climb. But the psyche was surprisingly low. So in stark contrast from normal behaviour we decided to leave the adventure and have a chilled day sport climbing. So that's what we did, we spent hours failing on nice 20m high sport climbs. But the need to do something cool on Sokolica was still gnawing away at us, so after lunch we headed up to the base. However there were a couple of guys starting up the route we had eyed up and they were going really slow. With us not knowing the Polish for we climb quicker we couldn't ask politely to push in front. Onto plan D there was a crag we hadn't been to called Brandysowa behind the campsite that had a supposed 3 star 6b+, heading down I was more psyched than Edwin who just seemed to want a grilled lunch. Upon arrival he was right to be less than psyched the first half was a chossy scramble, then about halfway up it flipped from chossy gully of death into hardcore limestone slab climbing. This coincided with where the route exited the trees and emerged into full sunshine. This also coincided with me remembering that I wasn't actually a good climber and that this was kind of hard. After relentlessly bashing my head against it I let Edwin have a go, after a while he raised the high point a bit but eventually accepted heat stroke based defeat. Once suitably organised at the base we raced back for the weekend grill at the campsite. Unfortunately it closed at 6pm, gutted we drowned our sorrows in pierogis and went for a walk to a nearby bat cave. Getting to the gates we discovered it was actually a proper tourist attraction and wasn't open at 10pm, 8 miles later we were back in the tent and suitably destroyed from our late night leg day.
 |
| Prepared mountaineers Photo By Edwin George |
 |
| Lost Photo By Edwin |
 |
| Edwin Climbing Photo By Me |
 |
| Looking Over To Shitzroy Photo By Edwin |
 |
| Home Photo By Edwin |
 |
| Zabikon Photo By Edwin |
Monday, 24 July 2017
Rock Climbing In The Polish Jura- A Tale Of Polish, Pierogis and Premium Lines Part 1
Poland, its not the first place you think of when you think of world class sport climbing destinations, even the locals told us 'our rock is not so good', but for us it provided a convenient adventure, that was different yet familiar and amazingly affordable.
I'll start from the beginning about 2 months ago Edwin was rallying everyone up to the idea of a climbing trip abroad during the summer. We looked at the classic destinations of France Italy and Spain, then out of nowhere we decided to look at crags near Krakow. To our surprise there was an abundance of limestone cliffs about 30 minutes from the city. With very little information apart from a few photos and a website that indicated the campsite was going to be very cheap, we started looking for flights to Krakow.
Cheap flights to Krakow booked, bags packed, bus times checked and although we had no guidebook or expectations the psyche was high. Skip to the day of the flights both up early getting trains from our respective homes in Kendal and Marske. I arrived at Manchester airport about 3 hours before the flight enough time to grab a coffee before Edwin was meant to arrive (roughly 15 minutes after I got there). But as I started my coffee I got a text from him saying 'the train has stopped'. But it was chill we still had just under 3 hours until the plane took off. 45 minutes passed as had a flurry of texts and many sips of coffee but Edwin was still trapped just outside Manchester on his train. Boarding for our plane closed at 11.25am, so as it got to 10.30am I started looking at weather in the Lake District partially accepting defeat, then the phone rang. Edwin was moving again so we were discussing the fine details of the military operation we would have to pull make our flight. All of sudden Edwin said he had to go, something was wrong. 10 minutes later I got a text from him saying wait by baggage drop off. At 10.50am a bedraggled Edwin was running through the airport towards me shaking his head. We quickly sorted our gear out threw the bag into check in and ran through security, as we got through we saw the gate number and set off sprinting through the airport. We got to the gate. We were the first there.
After the train debacle, a pleasant flight, a couple of buses and a 1 mile walk with Edwin's cumbersome suitcase we arrived at Brandysowka Campsite. This amazing bit of civilization in the biggest clearing in a densely wooded valley is carefully watched over by Sokolica, an amazing 60mt high limestone wall that towers over the campsite. It reminded me of High Tor in the Peak District and that was the first of the similarity between the Jura and Peak limestone. We set up camp and dined on the awesome Polish food that the campsite sold, belly's full of pierogis, beer and bigos we hit the hay psyched for our first adventure.
We woke up and escaped from the soggy sweat box that was our tent and looked up, towering above us was the days objective Lot Na Brandysa. The classic line up Sokolica, its a VI on the local grading system called the Kurtyka Scale. This we discovered after a lot of asking and reading works out at around French 6a or around 5.9/5.10 in American. This seemed like an amenable grade for our first day so we ventured up. After some deliberation Edwin won the lead for the first pitch(well pitch 1 + 2 that we would string together), after a few near slips on the unbelievably slippery limestone he reached the belay. A little dehydrated I set off on the second it was very polished (maybe even more than Stoney Middleton) but quite juggy. Upon arriving at the belay ledge I was ready to throw up, maybe it was the lack of water or the tiredness, but either way I manned/womaned up and set off on my lead. After a wrong turn or two I ended up on the right line, an amazing chimney to the top of this pillar, with unbeatable exposure then an airy step across onto the easy final slab. Amazing. With our main objective complete we had lunch, went for a walk and ended up at the single pitch crag that all the locals seemed to be at. We did a couple of easy things but then ended up trying to project this route that felt absolutely nails. We later found out that it was equivalent to 7c/+ which just goes to show how useful a guidebook is and how little we understand the Kurtyka scale.
The next day we woke up to the unmistakable sound of rain hitting the tent, deciding the day would probably be a washout we decided to explore the valleys and crags of the area. Before leaving I threw my towel over a beam in the communal shelter. We walked from the campsite through the nearby village of Bedkowice and down into the valley that contains Dolina Koblyanska, one of the most crag filled valleys in the area. As you walk through the valley the dense woodland gives way to an open clearing flanked on either side by walls of limestone. Some of the best limestone lines we had seen (but British limestone doesn't set the bar that high) and only 30 minutes from the campsite. But even more remarkably the rock had dried in record time. Passing a pizza place and bar we made a note to make a stop there on the return journey. Walking from town to town we eventually decided to work our way back, Edwin drew a line on the map so we could pass the crags of Dolina Bolechowicka on the way. Unfortunately this line didn't correspond to any paths, and after running through what I assume was someones backyard and a very dense woodland we emerged at a cliff edge. He was right, this was where we wanted to be it was just a case of getting down. Carefully scrambling down the ridge we could see another amazing ridge line on the other side of the valley, not knowing its name we named Shitzroy as it looked like a mini version of the famous Patagonian mountain. We would have to return for that.
That evening after a dinner of pizza and beer we bumped it a couple of Polish climbers who we had seen at the previous days crag. They spoke English so we stayed there and chatted for a good couple of hours, comparing experiences of Polish climbing and English climbing and lives of students in both country's it was great. Then it started to get dark. Being the prepared mountaineers we are we had a very bad map and no head torch. But what could go wrong. It started off fairly easy following a road, then due to the lack of scale on the map we turned down this dusty track, only to find out it only lead to a horse farm. With darkness ever encroaching we decided to skirt round the edge of the farm and pick our way through the woods. This was challenging, with no path and with the fear we may be trespassing, we didn't look back and charged head first through the thinnest part of the trees. The last glimmer of sunlight had gone and the moonlight was being blocked out by the ever enshrouding tees. Then we were through and once again in someones back yard so we ran as fast as we could then and thankfully we hit the road. Sweet safety. But there were no streetlights and the forest was dense our imaginations were running wild. Then something darted across the road. Was it a wolf? Are there wolves in Poland? Would we make it back alive? Would my towel still be there?
I'll start from the beginning about 2 months ago Edwin was rallying everyone up to the idea of a climbing trip abroad during the summer. We looked at the classic destinations of France Italy and Spain, then out of nowhere we decided to look at crags near Krakow. To our surprise there was an abundance of limestone cliffs about 30 minutes from the city. With very little information apart from a few photos and a website that indicated the campsite was going to be very cheap, we started looking for flights to Krakow.
 |
| Leaving behind the rain Photo by Me |
 |
| Polish Fields Photo by Me |
 |
| Attempt at a from the tent photo Photo by Me |
 |
| Sokolica Photo by Me |
 |
| Dolina Bolechowicka Photo by Me |
Friday, 23 June 2017
The Peak District It's Not Just About Stanage
During the recent heatwave I spent 5 days in the Peak District for Freddies birthday. As we had so much time we decided to head to Staffordshire to climb at the roaches, this is an amazing temple of gritstone it is one of the greatest places to climb in the UK. But due to the intense heatwave we ended up also exploring some of the shadiest crags in the Peaks. So what is this blog about well its about exploration of already explored territory going into the known unknown. In other words it is pointless just like climbing.
On the Sunday having spent the Saturday trying to follow the shade around the Roaches we head to Chee Dale to fail on slippery limestone. This may sound like a stupid plan but it was shaded and most importantly had a river to run into in a desperate effort to cool down. Walking down the Dale we were all struck with how beautiful and otherworldly it felt. This densely wooded dale with white bastions of limestone felt like a far cry from the desolate moors above Stanage yet it was less than 20 miles away. Wandering through the dale looking at the guidebook we noticed most routes were above our current limit, but this left us inspired and feeling a want to improve just to be able to climb in such a stunning place. We were wondering why Peak Limestone gets a bad reputation I assume its the polish, looseness and lack of classic easy lines. But the ability to climb in such beautiful locations is surely a good enough reason to utilise the limestone we have.
Another brilliant crag we visited was in the Churnet Valley another shady beautiful valley not far from Alton Towers. It seems to be one of the only Sandstone crags in the Peaks(unless you count grit as a type of sandstone) even though it isn't really sandstone, its more like conglomerate loads of pebals magically held into the rock and loads of holes where pebbles once were. This provides such a great contrast to the slippery limestone and the skin destroying grit all the while in an idyllic Jurassic setting. The climbing is mainly bouldering on big blocks with really great rock and a very sandy base we spent all day there and the approaches are easy and the climbing is super lovely pockets and pebble pulling. The only issue is sometimes you develop option paralysis due to the over abundance of holds. A great crag that was really good for shaded bouldering.
I've visited the roaches a few times before and always been super impressed with the quantity of quality lines. Been a slab lover it has some of the most enticing lines I've seen, which meant I was super psyched, unfortunately the weather was way to hot for friction smearing. So upon arrival I managed to climb Sloth a super intimidating HVS that I had fallen off on a previous trip due to rain soaking the upper jugs. It is the line of the crag and maybe the line on grit, super easy, super scary and super fun. I was ultra stoked to get this as its been on the cards a while. This was one of the only trad routes I managed in the whole 5 days we were away. It was so hot that bouldering in the shade was the only way we could keep from dying of heatstroke, especially with our resident ginger shade was imperative.
 |
| Me On Sloth Photo By Freddie |
On the Sunday having spent the Saturday trying to follow the shade around the Roaches we head to Chee Dale to fail on slippery limestone. This may sound like a stupid plan but it was shaded and most importantly had a river to run into in a desperate effort to cool down. Walking down the Dale we were all struck with how beautiful and otherworldly it felt. This densely wooded dale with white bastions of limestone felt like a far cry from the desolate moors above Stanage yet it was less than 20 miles away. Wandering through the dale looking at the guidebook we noticed most routes were above our current limit, but this left us inspired and feeling a want to improve just to be able to climb in such a stunning place. We were wondering why Peak Limestone gets a bad reputation I assume its the polish, looseness and lack of classic easy lines. But the ability to climb in such beautiful locations is surely a good enough reason to utilise the limestone we have.
Another way to avoid the heat was to climb at night as it was Freddies birthday on the Sunday him me and Oscar decided to climb Valkyrie a classic VS at the Roaches. They were both stoked, I was knackered internally unwilling but my sense of adventure was to strong to turn it down. We got to the base around 11pm and soloed the easy first pitch. Because it was his birthday Freddie got the lead of the classic second pitch. Freddie having never lead the route before and due to the darkness managed to find a 5c way round a 4c move, claiming it to be harder than the dangler( a classic Joe Brown E2) he found a place to belay and started to get it ready. Unfortunately sitting on a belay ledge only increased my tiredness and due to the nature of the pitch (a traverse above an overhang) it was inadvisable to fall off. So when it came to seconding and feeling like someone had just woken me up, I managed to abandon any technique and just scrap my way through, much to the horror of Oscar who was watching from the belay ledge. The other two only noticed my tiredness when we were walking down and I was mumbling about tories and anarchism. Not taking the hint they decided they felt up for another climb, Central Climb(HS 4c) on Hen Cloud. I elected to lead the first pitch (only 4b but I had backed down soloing it early in the day). It was easy but I felt revived and ready to smash through it, until I'd sat on a belay ledge for another 30 minutes. I did manage to haul myself to the top and it was a great adventure with great friends so it was worth it. Probably.
 |
| Suffering but still smiling Photo by Freddie |
Another brilliant crag we visited was in the Churnet Valley another shady beautiful valley not far from Alton Towers. It seems to be one of the only Sandstone crags in the Peaks(unless you count grit as a type of sandstone) even though it isn't really sandstone, its more like conglomerate loads of pebals magically held into the rock and loads of holes where pebbles once were. This provides such a great contrast to the slippery limestone and the skin destroying grit all the while in an idyllic Jurassic setting. The climbing is mainly bouldering on big blocks with really great rock and a very sandy base we spent all day there and the approaches are easy and the climbing is super lovely pockets and pebble pulling. The only issue is sometimes you develop option paralysis due to the over abundance of holds. A great crag that was really good for shaded bouldering.
 |
| Sloth in Sunset Photo By Me |
So what is the point well I think what I'm trying to say is don't get sucked into going to the same crag over and over, even in a concentrated area such of the Peak District as we discovered there is such variety of rock, style and countryside. As we found out there is more to the Peaks than Stanage, so as climbing is inherently an exploratory sport go and explore the explored and go into the known unknown.
Sorry there hasn't been much climbing in this blog but it was like 90 million degrees and we just sat in the shade bouldering in between dying of heatstroke. It was a great weekend though celebrated Freddies birthday in style with Oscar, Cindy, Sophie and Jessie all failing in Chee Dale.
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)