Climbing It's All About Style

Onsight, Flash, Lead, Readpoint, Solo. All words used to describe the way someone got up a piece of rock. The rampage of ethics and purity have meant that since climbing started it was the way you climbed that was important not what you climbed. The late Royal Robbins famously said 'Getting to the top is nothing, how you do it is everything'. This really resonates with a British climber because as soon as you start climbing outside you are bombarded with opinions on the 'right' way to climb a specific rock. These range from the obvious like not damaging the rock to the absurd e.g not using a crash pad underneath a grit route because it makes it too safe. Although personally I don't want to have to care that much about ethics my love of order and history mean I often feel compelled to follow the ethics. Ethics are essentially made up rules usually laid down by climbers that are superior of feel like they are superior. Some I agree with like no chipping and no pitons in soft rock, others I find stupid like the no crash pad thing. Others I follow but still think are stupid like following exact route descriptions, you end up getting the feeling you may of done something wrong if you don't follow the guidebook religiously.

The meat of this blog is about the style of ascent and this all pretty stupid and my opinion. We'll start with top roping, I understand that this is a valuable tool for learning to climb and practising moves on a route. Top roping will undoubtedly make you a better climber as you can try routes you wouldn't dare lead. But this isn't what I want out of climbing I feel like I don't climb half as well on top rope. Its invaluable for groups and people wanting to push themselves(but to be fair push yourself on a boulder problem but horses for courses). Maybe its because I am young and stupid but I find top roping something you are only getting half the experience. Saying that I enjoyed a session top roping downhill racer as it is unprotected and I wouldn't have wanted to solo something so far above my limit, it is also a valuable tool for new routing (of which I have done little). So maybe as I progress I will start using it as a tool to improve.

Top Roping and Leading in one picture Photo by Rob Kempster

Trad leading is the most common style of ascent I make, usually its onsight but you could argue with guidebooks everything is a flash now(another argument for another day). Its such a rich experience and I don't know whether I prefer it because I've grown up with it and learnt the history. Or whether its the ability to climb something and leave behind nothing but chalk marks, you also only have yourself to rely on to get up, not the guy who was placing bolts. You get the puzzling side of finding gear, the mental control of not getting scared, and the physical aspect of making the move. Some routes would loose some of their charm if they were bolted, 3 pebble slab springs to mind it has such an enigma around it due its spaced protection, bolting it would remove this enigma. I know you say solo it if you want that, its not the point because everyone who's done has had to go through that experience its great to share and revel in that shared experience.

Topping out a trad onsight Photo by Eric Stephani

Sport leading is a useful tool for getting better it means you can push yourself and try physical moves you wouldn't try on trad. I see it as a more engaging form of top roping as the line is laid out for you and the protection is where you want it.  It feels like a transition phase from top roping to trad as you are safer but get a more enthralling experience. Although personally I get more scared on sport climbing but that is due to a big sport climbing fall I had last year. Where I went off route and ended really far from the bolt, I took a huge whipper through a tree, smashing my leg off a ledge on the way down and severely bruising my ego.

Sport Climbing in Scotland Photo by Cindy Lin

Finally we get to what is seen as the most 'pure' style of ascent Free Solo, I don't claim to be a soloist, I dabble(Don't tell Mam) I've soloed a few HVS's and some routes well within my grade. Climbing on the North York Moors and Peak District lends itself to mild soloing being only 10-20m high. I soloed Hari Kiri at Park Nab in The North York Moors, it is HVS 5a only 10m high but still pretty cool, I'd top roped it previously so I knew the moves and when it came to soloing it it was so enjoyable because everything slotted into place, you get a great sense of the movement and you really get in the 'zone'(something I hadn't really experienced before), I onsight soloed the Sphinx Nose Traverse a Severe at the Wainstones. Again in North Yorkshire this isn't hard or especially high, but it's an outstanding route that may have felt less so as a lead or top rope. It's a rising traverse and you get higher and higher up the further you climb, because it was easy I didn't mind going for the onsight. This made it a very full experience not really know what the next holds are like definitely adds something, but they are all big and every move is reversible. You get into an amazing position on the nose of the sphinx where especially soloing where you feel some awesome exposure. People often see soloing as the most pure form of climbing and I agree setting off up face with no safety net is obviously the most clean form of climbing. But there is no way you can push yourself especially onsight soloing, maybe after top roping you can solo at your limit but you wouldn't want to solo something you didn't think you could . That is why it is important to verse yourself in all styles of ascent use sport to get strong, use top ropes to practise and test it all in trad or solo.

Where does scrambling start and soloing end around Severe (This is Tower Ridge a Diff) Photo by Cindy Lin

Back to the point ethics are so important I don't want to be the ethics police I just think somethings make sense. So things I get are top roping a hard route before leading it, obviously this is a good idea to make sure you aren't going to die, once it has being done someone can attempt an onsight but new routing its pretty legit idea to top rope it first. Chalk and Crash pads are useful so I don't care where or how they are used. My opinion is muddy on bolting, I'm unsure, if it is a historic route then don't retro bolt, but if its state of the art and a death route maybe bolt. But it who am I to say. Definitely don't chip and over brush, we need to conserve the rock they aren't making much more gritstone so be careful with it. I know this article has been like a lecture, but I like to talk about ethics. So if you have any opinions let me know. Ethics isn't just the county next to Suthics its a way of life.

The Lake District Its Either Wet Or Full Of Tourists

The Lake District its either wet or full of tourists, that's what I thought anyway. Having recently returned from SUMC's annual dinner trip to the Lake District I have discovered the joys of climbing there. Its truly world class although it did rain, there was polish and there were tourists it was still spectacular. Having grown up with my dad talking about his trips to the Lakes climbing back int day, when I started climbing I thought that was the place to go. But living in Manchester we kept going to the Peaks and North Wales, as the Lakes was wet or full of tourists. But so is the Peaks and North Wales I think its just getting around the Lakes that is the problem.

We spent the weekend rattling off some classics, on the Saturday we were in Borrowdale. As it was damp we headed up the classic VDiff Little Chamonix. Having heard rumours of disgusting polish my expectations were subterranean, especially with the first pitch dripping and the second pitch a walk. But then the final pitch (3rd and 4th done as 1) was absolutely sublime outrageous positions amazing holds interesting moves it had it all. I don't remember the polish being much of an issue just stellar easy climbing that was unforgettable. Getting to the top I was greeted by a lovely rainstorm meaning Sophie and Eric got to second in the rain and I got to lead the whole thing.

Borrowdale looking British Photo by Me

Having returned to the van for sandwiches (be warned Shepards cafe wasn't open in march) we checked the time it was 3pm, we had arranged to meet back at the van for 4.30pm so we could get to the meal about an hour away. But after a few phone calls we heard that people we were just about to start Little Chamonix, knowing that they aren't the swiftest climbers myself Eric, Shaun, Edwin and Sophie decided we could get Troutdale Pinnacle in as well. So quick marched to the crag Edwin and Shaun set off as they were simul-climbing once they were out of sight I set off.  I was leading everything again so I planned on linking the 1st 2 pitches into one so it would be one long 50m pitch. I had to wait around a couple of times as I caught up to Edwin and Shaun, besides a mildly scary section that was dripping with water it went smoothly, I was soon reunited with Eric and Sophie. I was linking the next next two pitches together, the climbing off the spike was lovely and I soon found myself on the traverse, where once again I met Shaun and Edwin who had gotten lost. Once they were out of sight I crossed the traverse which was a bit damp but pleasant enough. But by god the rope drag getting out of the traverse was enormous and the wet jugs didn't help, but eventually I hauled myself onto the belay slope. Once Eric Sophie and I were assembled on the ledge I started scrambling up to the top of the pinnacle, where you get an astonishing view over to Keswick, Derwent water and Skiddaw. I was then greeted with steeper but still easy climbing with an awesome final move that felt really out there and amazing for a Severe. Setting up an anchor my choices were limited as Eric had a lot of my gear from seconding, but I could see the clouds rolling in so I set up a bomber anchor, then as Eric and Sophie had just made the awesome final move it started to rain. We ran back down to the bags by which time it had dried up (British weather huh).

We got down at 7pm.

The meal started at 7pm and was an hour away.

We didn't make.

But we went to Keswick for fish and chips which was a great way to end a great day. Two classic routes, Little Chamonix far outreached my expectations unrivalled at the grade, Troutdale pinnacle was let down by wet rock but still awesome. But both amazing routes astonishing for the grade, absolute must dos and worth missing the meal.

Derwent Water From The Belvadere Photo by Me

On the Sunday we had wall to wall sunshine so we headed over to Wasdale, after a lot of faff we eventually left the van at 12ish for the 1 hour approach over to Napes crag. We were heading to Tophet Wall a Hard Severe that is apparently unparalleled in its grade and one of the best routes in the country. The walk in was steep and warm but the crag was in the shade by the time we started climbing. Jessie lead the first pitch (or 2 pitches not quite sure she stopped just before the traverse) seconding with a rucksack it was a pretty thin pitch for HS. Putting on a jacket and setting off on the traverse I was blown away with the position, getting to the corner and stepping onto the arete I was completely out of metaphors for the feeling of standing on that spike, stepping into the corner and climbing the jug rail out. A 5 star route. Then a short scramble to a very scenic belay spot. Scree running back to the bags had sandwiches and set off on the path home.

Wasdale looking stunning and I need to start taking photos in landscape Photo by me

We walking underneath NapeN needle and unfortunately it was still sunny so we decided we could fit it in as we hadn't really arranged a plan for a meeting time. As Eric was getting to the belay at the top of the Wasdale crack we got a text saying to be back at the van at 5.30pm. It was 7pm. the intermittent signal meant we were having trouble communicating, so we went the top anyway as we saw a couple more members at the top down climbing some scree. The top pitch of the needle is ridiculous really polished boulder problem that feels out there even though its a 4m pitch. I really enjoyed the ridiculous belay and got Eric, Shaun and Jessie up before down climbing with a sling of a flake that made it safeish. Ridiculous views as we retreated from the top. Another amazing day climbing that feels really hardcore but is really amenable. We set off on the sketchy walk back in the dark once we got to the van it was 10pm, woops. We started driving back when we got signal we had many many angry phone calls and texts from people who left there stuff in the back of the club van. Which I was driving. After a heinous drive down the motorway we were back in Manchester at 12.45am where we dropped peoples gear at there houses. Its currently the 6th April this happened on the 2nd and I'm not sure if I am allowed to make jokes about it so i'll leave that here.

A man who has learned to love the lakes Photo by Me

Back to the point, the Lakes is awesome don't worry about the tourists there is enough climbing so you'll find something free to climb, don't worry about the rain there will be some easy classic somewhere where you can have an amazing day. The rock is amazing the views are stellar and you can feel out there on a Diff. I mean the Peak District is good, the Yorkshire Dales are good. North Wales is good and the Lakes is good. Crap, its all good just go climbing somewhere in the north its all good it just gets better the more you mix it up. Other notes rope drag is heinous, wet rhyolite is climbable and ron hills are awesome. So it doesn't matter where you climb or your preconceived notions of certain areas just get out and climbing, it is the best way to ensure polished routes stay polished and great under climbed routes get cleaner. So get out there, it so out there.