Brimham VS Challenge

Everyone loves a challenge, whether it's a crossword at the back of a newspaper, seeing how much you can eat at an all you can eat buffet or doing a bunch of climbs in a day. As humans we are naturally inclined to seek out challenge as it stimulates and motivates us. So when Rob suggested we try and do the YMC Grit Guides 10 Must Do Brimham VS's in a day it caught my interest, but thought we could do more so I chose a couple of extra classics to increase the interest of the day. After a Sunday session of intense bouldering I was hankering for a day tradding, so on the 8th November we got in the car and made tracks for Brimham.

The Ticklist.

It was one of those prime gritstone days the sun was glorious but the temperatures were low, a perfect day for hard gritstone climbing. But not so great for doing a bunch of mid grade trad climbs, but we were committed to the idea. Leaving the car park we made tracks for Maloja, retrospectively the most pleasant climb of the day. Robs lead, smoothly and efficiently he motored up before encountering the recurring crux of the day finding an anchor. Eventually it was time to second and although the air was crisp the rock was warm and inviting, the route itself is stunning really leisurely climbing up some great features. At the top we were excited to have started the adventure but also baffled by the descent options, classic Brimham. Through some mild chimneying we returned to the ground and made haste to Jabberwok Variation. Castle Rock is one of the most impressive lumps of gritstone at Brimham and in the middle there is an eye catching slanting crack this is the line of Jabberwok Variation. The crack itself is straightforward if a little pumpy you then get a rest before the horrifying final chimney. Well its only horrifying if you enter the wrong way round and don't have suitably large gear. Once some poor gear was placed in the remnants of a birds nest I began squirming upwards with the ever present feeling of falling out. Reborn on the top I scoured far and wide for the anchor, finally bringing Rob up we were bathed in sunshine and psyched for what felt like a warm summers day climbing.

Jabberwok Variation Video by Robs Shoe

After a brief stint getting lost we found Allan's Crack and our dreams of a sunny day climbing were shattered it was shady and freezing. Rob made light work or Fag Slab Variant helpfully plugging the handholds with gear. Its a short route and was perhaps our quickest of the day, but next was Allan's Crack a route that has a hard reputation but is actually quite easy. I think the name is misleading as its more of a slab climb. Utilising the undercuts for jugs and some good feet its got a brilliant sequence. I felt strong and then I got to the scrittly finish. With no good gear available and as I was using Robs rack I asked if his cams worked passively he responded with a yes, brilliant that'll do. It's a stunning line and is one of the top VS's I have done. Then it was Robs turn, I couldn't see the start from the belay and as he started climbing I was reading the rope and taking in when necessary then I felt tug, Rob had slipped at the start off the polished holds. Chuckling to myself I lowered him the the 3ft to the floor and he quickly joined me at the top. Rapidly packing we made a beeline for Birch Tree, Right wall and hopefully some sunshine.

Arriving at the base of Birch Tree Wall we were greeted with a rare Brimham sight, there was no one around usually there is at least one person walking or bouldering. Hungry I ate whilst Rob racked up the next two leads were his. A little shaky in places and treating himself to a horrendous amount of rope drag he topped out Birch Tree Wall. Having soloed it before it was nice to do it with a rope even though I climbed it better without. Right Wall looks uninviting from the bottom, green walls with the polished line standing out like a gem no one wants. Rob started up the route extending gear this time, when he got the crux crack he looked nervous and spent a while placing gear. I was wary he looked like he might drop it. But once the gear was sorted he fought valiantly upwards to the final crux straddling leftwards to the top. It was great to watch I was psyched for my turn, as I got to the cruxy finger crack I somehow managed to layback and yarded up. The crux turned out to be the top out where I almost left my arm behind as the jam was too good. Rob was psyched these were his hardest leads done, I was psyched but mine were still to come. Whilst I was belaying a local boulderer started chatting too me, we divulged our plan for the day at the mention of the routes he laughed that we had chosen to add Notice Board Crack and wished us luck. I needed it Central Crack was next and it was my lead.

Whilst I racked up Rob ate, he had done Central Crack before and knew what lay in store. The start is simple and the middle is a divine hand crack but the top is desperate, classic Brimham. You get a good rest and cam placement before the slopey wide top out. Unfortunately the best cam placement was exactly where my leg needed to be so I lowered it. Making for a bigger fall but gave me a chance to make upward progress. Pulling on slopers and jamming my knee I reached for a fist jam it stuck and that was it I was committed. 5 minutes of groveling commence and I pulled myself over. What a VS. Rob knowing the tricks of it made light work and didn't even fully offwidth. Right Hand Crack was Robs choice for his penultimate lead, its quite strenuous but with steady jams. As he tentatively made progress I could see his psyche was waning, I knew once he had done this it'd be plain sailing for him. He surmounted the final awkward move then it was my turn.  As I started seconding I could feel the wear of the day on my arms. Not a lot of climbs but all awkward and slightly strenuous. When we were back down we discussed the doubts we had about completing the day. We had started at 10.30am it was now 3pm and we still had 4 routes to do, all challenging in their own right and with 90 minutes of daylight left it was going to be tough. But being optimists Rob quickly sent Parallel Cracks, his last lead of the day and in some style. The last move is the trickiest and he crushed it I think his best lead of the day he made it look simple. Copying his moves I blasted up it. Then I knew it was all on me. I knew Rob could do the climbs, he had done most of them before and seconding would be no problem. But I haven't lead much recently and to do them quickly would require some real efficiency. I think I was over thinking, it was no big deal the routes would be easy. How hard can a Brimham VS be?

Lancet Crack was next. Hidden at the back corner of a gully this overhanging finger crack somehow gets VS. Excited and with a little gear beta from Rob I set off. Bloody hell its overhanging, quick get some cams in, grab the next hold ahh its a jug hang around get some gear and go for the crux. My hand reaches for the thin hanging crack its polished I keep bumping it up, fingers slipping I should've jammed I think I'm going to drop it then I latch the jug. Its over, placing a little more gear and fighting some scrittle I top it out. So you think you can climb VS? After Rob joined me we made the crux descent and we noticed the light was fading, running over to Notice Board I was psyched. Squirming up the initial crack I was enjoying myself this felt easy, pouring myself onto the ledge below the final crack I was ready the cam should fit, it'll be easy. The cam did fit at the bottom and the crack was green. Throwing my hat and jacket to the top and clipping the gear to the cam I swim up. Its traditional but a cake walk compared to whats been. Rob soon joined me he was psyched it was almost over, we had almost done it. But.

Rough Wall was the finale. It was dark. Its 4.30pm. Bloody winter, Headtorch on I start up. The first moves feel tricky there's not much for the feet then I feel the slip and fall. Luckily I was about 1ft off the ground but doubt started to creep in, maybe we had bitten off more than we can chew. Staying cheery I go again, its cold placing gear freezes my fingers, the climb is well chalked and pretty steady. I traverse the breaks to the final crack, the crux. I place some gear and adjust my headtorch by now the feeling in my hand is totally gone. I layback and slap the frozen lump of hand to the top hoping for something good knowing there is 50/50 chance I'll fall. It sticks, its over, we have done it. Just get Rob up and we are done, he makes light work and cruises to the top. Its done 6 hours and 38 minutes car to car not to bad. But it's not really about time or grade, it was a great day in great weather doing some absolutely classic routes. I'd recommend it to anyone who thinks they can climb VS.

Our stats and times of the day

Here is the UKC ticklist for those interested. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2276