Okay I may be exaggerating about the breaking holds(although I won't say it hasn't happened) and yes it may be small but the climbing on the Moors is some of the best in country. Now a little context, why am I suddenly displaying an interest in this area. Well since finishing uni I am back home in the uneven job market of the North East and as you can tell by the last blog unsure of what I'm doing. So I have been spending as much time as possible getting out into the Moors usually bouldering as its easier and the crags really lend themselves to semi highballing. The North Yorkshire Moors is a national park south of Middlesbrough and north of Scarbrough mainly compromising of heather, sandstone outcrops, quaint villages and a crumbly coastline, its less than an hour from York and less than 2 from Sheffield or Manchester. Being on the right side of the Pennines means the weather is usually better than the Peak and Lakes and not being close to big cities means its often quieter than the Peak.
 |
| Classic moors scene Photo By Me |
As an even youthier youth the Moors was my introduction to outdoor climbing heading up to the micro crag of Park Nab to top rope with the local scout group. This was our go to crag and occasionally we would head to Scugdale, a mini Burbage north with face after face of immaculate rock and uncomfortable landings. But we were top roping and although I enjoyed these days climbing wasn't high on my teenage priority list. Having discovered my love for climbing at uni, last summer a little wiser and a little older I returned to these little gems. Although it was great to be back I didn't have half the equipment or experiance I have now so I spent more time doing the easier solo, lowball or top roping session. Although I did manage to solo most of the routes that we used to top rope at Park Nab so it wasn't all bad.
 |
| Scugdale Sunset Photo By Me |
But this summer armed with the shittest crash pad go outdoors had to offer(Freddie whom I bought it off) I have discovered some new crags, revisited old crags and with the benefit of comparisons (mainly to Peak crags) my eyes have opened to the monster climbing found within these short sandstone walls. Although I've had a couple of setbacks one been a whipper off a dank offwidth lmost landing on my Dads head and the other an unsuccessful attempt on a slabby wall climb that I deemed impossible as a youth. But apart from these and the whole reason for this shitshow of a blog is I've had some monster sessions on some of the greatest rock I've ever climbed on. Perhaps my best evening out was at Scugdale(Scots Crag) perfect weather and I got about 30 routes in. Its the perfect height 8mts at its highest so if you place a crash pad and don't fall off and you never need a rope. Its perfect there aren't many routes harder than E1 so perfect for the average climber. The solitude you get is amazing at such a lovely crag in thePeak you'd be fighting for routes with shitty sticks. Its a 10 minute walk in and you couldn't ask for a greater evening venue just to get some mileage in.
 |
| Tripesdale Photo By Me |
At the other end of the spectrum was a trip to the Wainstones the classic crag of the area with a fairly gentle 30 minute walking and some stellar classic routes one but the reason I've been there for is the amazing boulder problems. Blank slabs, dirty traverses, awful offwidths and one of the best f7as I've tried a super steep jug fest that is so proud and well worth calling in for. But the walk in is nothing compared to Kays Nest at around 50 minutes the walk in is worthy of the Lake District, but the bouldering is stunning and the setting is unrivalled. Perfect sandstone boulders with so many amenable problems and the recurring theme of the Moors solitude.
 |
| The Prow f7a Photo By Rob |
Solitude, Sending, Sandstone.
