Its Friday, I'm on the train to Manchester happy about my destination, less so about the journey. As the train pierces through the countryside I see the Moors out my window, the dying bracken enclosed by the rich blue autumn sky and the rich green pastures that cover the ground. I know in a few hours I'll be passing through the Pennines. Oh to be on the grit or sandstone on a day like today with skin hardened from the cold and spirits lifted by the sun.
The recent memory of last nights climbing at Clemitts offers brief respite from the drudgery of the train. A glorious evening with the dying light laced with the smoke of the heather that burns so violently on the horizon. But I look back down and I'm on the train, I hear the drunken voices of teenagers heading to York for the sole purpose of drinking. What a use of day like this. Still I'm on a train throwing away one of the few perfect days you have in a British autumn.
But the goal is justified I'm heading to Manchester to drive to Wales with my University Mountaineering Club, a good reason I'm sure but it still feels like a wasted day. I wish I was out. I suppose this is what it'd like to have a job. Sitting all day, just sitting slowly aging. Whilst the golden opportunity slips away and the dream of climbing on a crisp sunny day becomes that a dream, a wistful myth of the days that could have been. Oh to feel the bite of the grit or sandstone. Oh to be bouldering, tradding or walking. Oh to be out
Friday 27 October 2017
Sunday 1 October 2017
Moor in Depth
Seen as my little blog on the moors was my most popular, I decided to follow it up with one a little more in depth and brimming with anecdotes. Enjoy what may end up reading like a selection of short stories.
Scugdale- Crisp sandstone, fleeting glimpses of golden light and the ever changing temperature of midsummer England. This is a roadside crag, well kind of. Its 10 minutes from the village of Swainby up a single track road that definitely warrants a hefty e grade. Then a pleasant 10 minute hike up the hill to the most popular end of the crag, a virtually continuous band of high moor sandstone called Scots crag. Because of the height almost all routes are amenable to solo above pads which is what we went for. A warm up was in order and as Rob read the guidebook I took a scramble up a little VS( I say little the tallest this crag gets is 10 metres), which been the moors was pretty stiff for for VS slightly overhanging and with some scrittly slopers it was the perfect warm up. Eve right hand is a one of the most aesthetic lines I've seen, an arete that would be the most classic of classics were it in the Peak. Sublime laybacking and then a slightly awkward highstep that coupled with the unpleasant landing really makes you question your life choices, but I'm young dumb and full of uhh fun? So I pressed on stood up latched the jug and went along on my merry business. Warmed by the intermittent sun and brimming with stoke we managed to polish off almost 30 routes all perfect portraits in sandstone. After a couple of hours I was feeling strong and like I could onsight Indian Face so I set off up Bonzo a mild HVS that was a supposed one move wonder. Which it was but it just wasn't the move I was expecting, so when I pulled through what I thought was the hard move I found myself stranded half way up the wall. With my only options for escape being either upwards or doing a reverse high step mantle. Obviously I chose to stand there for about a week chalking up, feeling holds, getting a tan, having fun and hoping the move wouldn't seem so daunting. Eventually I set off on what turned out to be a slightly smeary slightly crimpy ladder to the top. Elated I told Rob how great it was. I don't think he believed me and declined to follow suit. After what seemed like an age but also a second it was time to go, fingers tender from the warm love of the sandstone and minds racing with the distance covered we left. Many things to return to and many things to repeat.
Highcliffe Nab- The greenest, dirtiest and hardest crag within view of a Lidl. Its the classic hard crag of the area for the generations preceding me most of the hardest routes are there. But I didn't go for them on my first visit I was there to do some bouldering and easy soloing. Which was lovely apart from the block I was bouldering on was littered with broken glass thanks to the generosity of some local neds. The soloing was pleasant and I did the classic Severe of Highcliffe crack which is just pure pleasantness. But the line that drew my eye was a HVS/E1 offwidth called Scarecrow Crack done in the 50's it has the ever endearing appeal of a classic struggle. So returning with my dad to belay, my big cam and an insufficient warm up I set off. Pulling on I really should've taken note of how gritty, sandy and slightly damp the rock felt but psyche is an overruling power. So after some overly dynamic moves and a gear placement I reached the base of the offwidthy bit. Already pumped I switched from the comfort of the chicken wing(climbing technqiue makes your arm look like a chicken wing) to a layback because my best gear placement was where the best chicken wing was. With the ever growing pump rendering my arms almost useless I udged upwards inch by inch legs scrabbling their way to follow the chicken wing that had pulled me that far. Then the crack ran out and although I could reach the ledge it was a) sandy b)green c) wet and I was a) pumped b) stuck and c)f**cked. I tried my hardest to adjust my hand to take the strain and allow a possible mantel onto the ledge, with my hand finally in an acceptable place I faced the next issue, my right leg was stuck in the crack. So trying to do it in one swift motion I tried to rotate into a layback freeing my leg and allowing me a better position to mantel. It didn't work. I threw my leg out with too much force and I could feel myself losing contact. Flying headfirst towards the slab my first thought was my helmets in my rucksack and I hope that cams high enough to stop me decking. Luckily it was, unluckily in the fight to stop the fall I'd locked the chicken wing so tight I still have a scar on my arm 3 months later. Annoyed at myself for falling so close to a rest I went and set up an abseil to retrieve the gear. As I lowered down the grassy slope I could only think one thing. Thank god I fell off. The top was dripping also it was vertical grass and the top crack was to wide for any of my cams. So although the fall was unpleasant at least I didn't have to solo up another offwidth and then climb the wet grass equivalent of the Meltdown. A great day was had by all it had everything bad climbing, pump and a fall. Its one to remember I didn't land on Dad, aren't cams amazing and offwidths are rad.
Park Nab- The best crag in the UK. Well its not but it is pretty cool, a personal favourite because its where I started climbing and it gives a good basis for comparison as the rock doesn't change(editors note- yes it does half this crag fell down in 1994). I've soloed most of the routes that I used to top rope so that's good progress. Well almost there is one I thought impossible I couldn't even top rope it, its called Pinnacle Face. It's an eliminaty kind of thing in the fact you could fridge hug it all the way up, but ethically that's not the correct way to do it, but you can use a bit of the right arete here and there. Anyway I did mange to top rope it a few times last summer but I still haven't got round to either soloing it or leading it. I think the start move is a British 5c slab move then it gets way easier but its slightly overhanging and often green at the top. I have set off leading it but I'd spent to long getting pumped on a self imposed boulder eliminate that whilst amazing was pretty pointless and I had to bail on Pinnacle face. Another project of mine is a great bouldery roof that I tried top roping last year called Dangle I think it gets e2 6a and I could not for the life of me figure out how to pull through the roof. This year I flashed it I suppose that's either progress or luck. But it is a place I go not for the route, grade, line or send its usually to spend time with my Dad as he enjoys the top roping there and I think what he gets is nostalgia and its the same for me, the rose tinted goggles at the routes he used to solo and the enjoyment he gets just from top roping them. I think that's why I have shifted my view of the place to stop going there for a specific challenge just go enjoy the experience and be.
Kay Nest- I think this is one of the most remote crags in the Moors. You park at Chop Gate village hall walk through some fields some containing bulls and some contain dead sheep. Then you head over the hill and down into Tripsdale. Its an idyllic Moors valley crowned with heather, an aterial stream running through it and the crag shrouded by trees with boulders littering the ground below it. We didn't bother heading to the crag although there look to be some good lines we were there for the bouldering as it looked stellar. Myself and Rob were thoroughly psyched by having this massive playground of boulders all to ourselves. Warming up on this slab the rock was achingly beautiful the most fine grained sandstone I have seen only shrouded in a little scrittle it was a brilliant warm up. Our sights were firmly set on the ship stone a great 5 meter high block with perfect face climbing and as it turns out the worlds hardest font 5 boulder problem. From a marginal matched crimp utilising the sloper for your feet you lunge upwards to a less than perfect hold. This 5 felt harder than a 6c I did later in the day, it took me so long to get it I was pumped out my mind trying to do the final moves. But somehow managing to claw back any remnants of strength I managed to flop over the top, amazing boulder though. After we had pretty much completed the east face of the ship we headed deep into the woods in search of boulders. We got lost, utilising my never ending psyche as a navigational tool meant we went too deep into the woods. We did see a 8b boulder problem and an unclimbed arete that looks like the sweetest line in the moors. After running down hill through bracken, getting attacked by trees and eventually me running straight into a waist high bog we found the boulders we were after. There was brilliant slabby arete that required a committing pop for the top, lying next to the reason I had bushwacked so hard a 6c boulder that utilised my two favourite types of climbing monos and aretes. I expected a serious battle but I got it 2nd go which was great, if not slightly disappointing for you the reader and me the climber. I wanted a fight, I wanted to dislocate my middle finger trying to hard but oh well I suppose you do have to win some. Walking back unsure of the time that had past and slowly edging towards the civilised world, I felt like we were leaving somewhere special. Somewhere you can return in 20 years and it won't have changed, sure the lines may get harder but the magic won't leave.
Wainstones- Its the crag most people know and it is the classic moors crag steeped in history with problems and lines from John Redhead to Steve McClure, containing some classic features such as the Sphinx, Steeple and Needle. Its even good enough for the outdoor centres to come and let kids top rope classics in muddy boots( but that's a different gripe). I have been there for easy soloing and some picnics as a kid but I'd never been to boulder. Redheads roof immediately caught my eye like it says on the tin its a roof and to get over it you need to mantle using a decent foothold but a very indecent crimp, I couldn't get it (also if you haven't seen it watch clown assending a great if mental film about John Redhead). We still managed to tick the classic slabs and overhangs there is such a variety its hard to get bored there, because if you're bored of the bouldering there is some amazing trad routes to try. Anyway under the guise of going to look at the holds we wandered down to The Prow a stunning 7a boulder problem that looked nails, however upon closer inspection I noticed the holds were massive and I could actually do a move or two it just became crossed the line from impossible to possible. Upon my next visit I headed towards the crag facing the Wainstones, it is called Cold Moor. Where there as an abundance of great quiet lines, I did the most sublime HS called Beak Ridge great movement in a sublime position. But that was just a warm up for the 7a, where once the cow pat directly under the starting hold had been dealt with I managed to make the amazing progress of one extra move. Baby steps. Its really not my forte big powerful moves in roofs but it looks so good and feels just the right side of possible that I am willing to spend even more time projecting it. Which for someone as impatient as me is a big statement. There isn't much to say about this place that hasn't been said its classic, its varied and its popular(well for the Moors).
Tranmire- The latest of the crags I have visited my initial thoughts were the main crag is wet glad I came for the boulders. But the wall that immediately caught mine and Robs eye was the short buttress next to the wall at the north end of the main crag. A enigmatic blank wall flanked by a couple of cracks and laced with a break and a flake. I couldn't work out the direct start so I approached it from the crack on the right a little HVS called Thug leaning across from a good jug I engaged the flake, crimp crimp swing the foot out then latch the jug. Great only the top bit to do, ohh the holds have ran out quick bail, jump down to the pads hope they don't slide down the hill again, safe on the pad I begin to relax then it slides down the hill. This stunning crag and boulder field has the most classic of all Moors problems. The guidebook says pull jump or dyno to the lip then beach whale to finish. If that doesn't make you want to climb it I don't what would. An elegant hanging wedge is gained by a reach for me then once purchase was gained, I flopped onto the slab and with moves reminiscent of a 90's breakdancer I wiggled your way up hill (if you would like to see the footage get in contact its short but sweet). A brilliant crag with some definite gems and some projects to return for. What other reason do you want to go than worming your way up hill. Poetic prose cannot define or describe the technique needed but a fun day was had so we have succeeded.
Well I hope you enjoyed that. If you have any questions or would like some more info on the Moors( or just want to see the video of that problem at tranmire) get in touch at joe.foster59@yahoo.co.uk.
Scugdale- Crisp sandstone, fleeting glimpses of golden light and the ever changing temperature of midsummer England. This is a roadside crag, well kind of. Its 10 minutes from the village of Swainby up a single track road that definitely warrants a hefty e grade. Then a pleasant 10 minute hike up the hill to the most popular end of the crag, a virtually continuous band of high moor sandstone called Scots crag. Because of the height almost all routes are amenable to solo above pads which is what we went for. A warm up was in order and as Rob read the guidebook I took a scramble up a little VS( I say little the tallest this crag gets is 10 metres), which been the moors was pretty stiff for for VS slightly overhanging and with some scrittly slopers it was the perfect warm up. Eve right hand is a one of the most aesthetic lines I've seen, an arete that would be the most classic of classics were it in the Peak. Sublime laybacking and then a slightly awkward highstep that coupled with the unpleasant landing really makes you question your life choices, but I'm young dumb and full of uhh fun? So I pressed on stood up latched the jug and went along on my merry business. Warmed by the intermittent sun and brimming with stoke we managed to polish off almost 30 routes all perfect portraits in sandstone. After a couple of hours I was feeling strong and like I could onsight Indian Face so I set off up Bonzo a mild HVS that was a supposed one move wonder. Which it was but it just wasn't the move I was expecting, so when I pulled through what I thought was the hard move I found myself stranded half way up the wall. With my only options for escape being either upwards or doing a reverse high step mantle. Obviously I chose to stand there for about a week chalking up, feeling holds, getting a tan, having fun and hoping the move wouldn't seem so daunting. Eventually I set off on what turned out to be a slightly smeary slightly crimpy ladder to the top. Elated I told Rob how great it was. I don't think he believed me and declined to follow suit. After what seemed like an age but also a second it was time to go, fingers tender from the warm love of the sandstone and minds racing with the distance covered we left. Many things to return to and many things to repeat.
Highcliffe Nab- The greenest, dirtiest and hardest crag within view of a Lidl. Its the classic hard crag of the area for the generations preceding me most of the hardest routes are there. But I didn't go for them on my first visit I was there to do some bouldering and easy soloing. Which was lovely apart from the block I was bouldering on was littered with broken glass thanks to the generosity of some local neds. The soloing was pleasant and I did the classic Severe of Highcliffe crack which is just pure pleasantness. But the line that drew my eye was a HVS/E1 offwidth called Scarecrow Crack done in the 50's it has the ever endearing appeal of a classic struggle. So returning with my dad to belay, my big cam and an insufficient warm up I set off. Pulling on I really should've taken note of how gritty, sandy and slightly damp the rock felt but psyche is an overruling power. So after some overly dynamic moves and a gear placement I reached the base of the offwidthy bit. Already pumped I switched from the comfort of the chicken wing(climbing technqiue makes your arm look like a chicken wing) to a layback because my best gear placement was where the best chicken wing was. With the ever growing pump rendering my arms almost useless I udged upwards inch by inch legs scrabbling their way to follow the chicken wing that had pulled me that far. Then the crack ran out and although I could reach the ledge it was a) sandy b)green c) wet and I was a) pumped b) stuck and c)f**cked. I tried my hardest to adjust my hand to take the strain and allow a possible mantel onto the ledge, with my hand finally in an acceptable place I faced the next issue, my right leg was stuck in the crack. So trying to do it in one swift motion I tried to rotate into a layback freeing my leg and allowing me a better position to mantel. It didn't work. I threw my leg out with too much force and I could feel myself losing contact. Flying headfirst towards the slab my first thought was my helmets in my rucksack and I hope that cams high enough to stop me decking. Luckily it was, unluckily in the fight to stop the fall I'd locked the chicken wing so tight I still have a scar on my arm 3 months later. Annoyed at myself for falling so close to a rest I went and set up an abseil to retrieve the gear. As I lowered down the grassy slope I could only think one thing. Thank god I fell off. The top was dripping also it was vertical grass and the top crack was to wide for any of my cams. So although the fall was unpleasant at least I didn't have to solo up another offwidth and then climb the wet grass equivalent of the Meltdown. A great day was had by all it had everything bad climbing, pump and a fall. Its one to remember I didn't land on Dad, aren't cams amazing and offwidths are rad.
Park Nab- The best crag in the UK. Well its not but it is pretty cool, a personal favourite because its where I started climbing and it gives a good basis for comparison as the rock doesn't change(editors note- yes it does half this crag fell down in 1994). I've soloed most of the routes that I used to top rope so that's good progress. Well almost there is one I thought impossible I couldn't even top rope it, its called Pinnacle Face. It's an eliminaty kind of thing in the fact you could fridge hug it all the way up, but ethically that's not the correct way to do it, but you can use a bit of the right arete here and there. Anyway I did mange to top rope it a few times last summer but I still haven't got round to either soloing it or leading it. I think the start move is a British 5c slab move then it gets way easier but its slightly overhanging and often green at the top. I have set off leading it but I'd spent to long getting pumped on a self imposed boulder eliminate that whilst amazing was pretty pointless and I had to bail on Pinnacle face. Another project of mine is a great bouldery roof that I tried top roping last year called Dangle I think it gets e2 6a and I could not for the life of me figure out how to pull through the roof. This year I flashed it I suppose that's either progress or luck. But it is a place I go not for the route, grade, line or send its usually to spend time with my Dad as he enjoys the top roping there and I think what he gets is nostalgia and its the same for me, the rose tinted goggles at the routes he used to solo and the enjoyment he gets just from top roping them. I think that's why I have shifted my view of the place to stop going there for a specific challenge just go enjoy the experience and be.
Kay Nest- I think this is one of the most remote crags in the Moors. You park at Chop Gate village hall walk through some fields some containing bulls and some contain dead sheep. Then you head over the hill and down into Tripsdale. Its an idyllic Moors valley crowned with heather, an aterial stream running through it and the crag shrouded by trees with boulders littering the ground below it. We didn't bother heading to the crag although there look to be some good lines we were there for the bouldering as it looked stellar. Myself and Rob were thoroughly psyched by having this massive playground of boulders all to ourselves. Warming up on this slab the rock was achingly beautiful the most fine grained sandstone I have seen only shrouded in a little scrittle it was a brilliant warm up. Our sights were firmly set on the ship stone a great 5 meter high block with perfect face climbing and as it turns out the worlds hardest font 5 boulder problem. From a marginal matched crimp utilising the sloper for your feet you lunge upwards to a less than perfect hold. This 5 felt harder than a 6c I did later in the day, it took me so long to get it I was pumped out my mind trying to do the final moves. But somehow managing to claw back any remnants of strength I managed to flop over the top, amazing boulder though. After we had pretty much completed the east face of the ship we headed deep into the woods in search of boulders. We got lost, utilising my never ending psyche as a navigational tool meant we went too deep into the woods. We did see a 8b boulder problem and an unclimbed arete that looks like the sweetest line in the moors. After running down hill through bracken, getting attacked by trees and eventually me running straight into a waist high bog we found the boulders we were after. There was brilliant slabby arete that required a committing pop for the top, lying next to the reason I had bushwacked so hard a 6c boulder that utilised my two favourite types of climbing monos and aretes. I expected a serious battle but I got it 2nd go which was great, if not slightly disappointing for you the reader and me the climber. I wanted a fight, I wanted to dislocate my middle finger trying to hard but oh well I suppose you do have to win some. Walking back unsure of the time that had past and slowly edging towards the civilised world, I felt like we were leaving somewhere special. Somewhere you can return in 20 years and it won't have changed, sure the lines may get harder but the magic won't leave.
Wainstones- Its the crag most people know and it is the classic moors crag steeped in history with problems and lines from John Redhead to Steve McClure, containing some classic features such as the Sphinx, Steeple and Needle. Its even good enough for the outdoor centres to come and let kids top rope classics in muddy boots( but that's a different gripe). I have been there for easy soloing and some picnics as a kid but I'd never been to boulder. Redheads roof immediately caught my eye like it says on the tin its a roof and to get over it you need to mantle using a decent foothold but a very indecent crimp, I couldn't get it (also if you haven't seen it watch clown assending a great if mental film about John Redhead). We still managed to tick the classic slabs and overhangs there is such a variety its hard to get bored there, because if you're bored of the bouldering there is some amazing trad routes to try. Anyway under the guise of going to look at the holds we wandered down to The Prow a stunning 7a boulder problem that looked nails, however upon closer inspection I noticed the holds were massive and I could actually do a move or two it just became crossed the line from impossible to possible. Upon my next visit I headed towards the crag facing the Wainstones, it is called Cold Moor. Where there as an abundance of great quiet lines, I did the most sublime HS called Beak Ridge great movement in a sublime position. But that was just a warm up for the 7a, where once the cow pat directly under the starting hold had been dealt with I managed to make the amazing progress of one extra move. Baby steps. Its really not my forte big powerful moves in roofs but it looks so good and feels just the right side of possible that I am willing to spend even more time projecting it. Which for someone as impatient as me is a big statement. There isn't much to say about this place that hasn't been said its classic, its varied and its popular(well for the Moors).
Tranmire- The latest of the crags I have visited my initial thoughts were the main crag is wet glad I came for the boulders. But the wall that immediately caught mine and Robs eye was the short buttress next to the wall at the north end of the main crag. A enigmatic blank wall flanked by a couple of cracks and laced with a break and a flake. I couldn't work out the direct start so I approached it from the crack on the right a little HVS called Thug leaning across from a good jug I engaged the flake, crimp crimp swing the foot out then latch the jug. Great only the top bit to do, ohh the holds have ran out quick bail, jump down to the pads hope they don't slide down the hill again, safe on the pad I begin to relax then it slides down the hill. This stunning crag and boulder field has the most classic of all Moors problems. The guidebook says pull jump or dyno to the lip then beach whale to finish. If that doesn't make you want to climb it I don't what would. An elegant hanging wedge is gained by a reach for me then once purchase was gained, I flopped onto the slab and with moves reminiscent of a 90's breakdancer I wiggled your way up hill (if you would like to see the footage get in contact its short but sweet). A brilliant crag with some definite gems and some projects to return for. What other reason do you want to go than worming your way up hill. Poetic prose cannot define or describe the technique needed but a fun day was had so we have succeeded.
Well I hope you enjoyed that. If you have any questions or would like some more info on the Moors( or just want to see the video of that problem at tranmire) get in touch at joe.foster59@yahoo.co.uk.
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