What a Year

I had my most successful day bouldering the other day, I don't know whether it was the conditions or I have improved but somehow I managed to busk my way up two 7a's. This got me thinking about my year in climbing and how many good days out I have had.

I only really started bouldering outside earlier this year, before that I spent most time trad climbing even up until the start of the summer trad climbing was my main thing. It was only really when I moved back to the Moors I started indulging in outdoor bouldering and this became my main focus. I had many good times trad climbing at the start of the year doing my boldest and hardest trad routes to date. Then I moved back from university to the Moors, having no partner at the start of the summer I just went out bouldering by myself. Then I met Rob and we continued to visit crags where routes were either too short or too hard to trad climb so we just ended up bouldering. Then winter came and it got really cold so we started heading to the grit for some super sticky bouldering. I have dabbled in trad climbing since I left university but its mainly been easy routes. As the winter went on I got really psyched for climbing hard and without the faff of trad climbing. I do feel like it has paid off and I look forward trying to transfer the bouldering strength into trad climbing over the next year.

Frozen Ground Photo by Me

With my new found love for bouldering Font 7a became my new goal. With this in mind I spent a lot of time traipsing up to the Wainstones to try The Prow as I was hoping this would be my first 7a. Then on one of the freezing Brimham days Rob climbed Whiskey Galore, I had given up at this point I was cold and couldn't get the sequence down. Ready to leave but motivated by Rob's ascent I put my shoes on and tried again. After a few goes the sequence was starting to work, but I was still struggling to get my left foot placement solid as it was blind and I couldn't feel my toes. On what must have been my 20th go the foot held, I matched the sloper moved my right hand to the thumb sprag, then I got my left leg high and started to rock up it was in the bag. Then I slipped. I caught my self on the sloper and thumb sprag but couldn't recover dropping it massively frustrated I took a rest. Thinking of giving up as my feet were numb Rob was really helpful and super keen for me to do it. Motivated I shoed up chalked up and went for another go. The moves flowed and before I knew it I had one hand on the top trying to keep cool I mantled over the top it was done. I had done 7a.

Making the moves on Whiskey Galore Photo by Robs Shoe

I was expecting that to be a fluke and it would be another year before I managed another 7a. But I had been trying Pair in a Cubicle also at Brimham. It is the essence of gritstone in one problem, one good hold and every move is harder and slopier than the last, until you get to the blank heartbreaking top out. I think I have had about 4 sessions on it including one demoralising and skin destroying session with Freddie where I got so close but ultimately ended up just ruining my hands. A couple of days after Christmas the conditions were looking amazing and me and Rob and both got new pads so once again we headed to Brimham to test them out. We spent a couple of hours failing to highball and made tracks towards Pair in a Cubicle. We got there and a couple of guys were already trying it after watching Rob fail to do the sit start to Murky Rib I decided to jump on Pair in a Cubicle. I got some helpful new beta from the guys trying it, it was only a change of hand position but it worked. I had a couple of failed goes then watched Rob and the guys trying it, feeling psyched but rested I jumped on. By now I had the start nailed the the moves after just flowed and I had both my hands on the top, slapping wildly but still kind of falling my hands moved slowly to the back. then I was in balance. I had groveled enough it was done, I don't know what I did different but I topped out in slight disbelief and relief that I didn't have to do it again anytime soon.

One of the failed attempts Photo by Rob

Rob kept trying getting guttingly close so many times, I had some lunch and chatted with a climbing legend for a bit. I kept spotting trying to return the favour to Rob for what he did for me on Whiskey. But after a few hours I wanted to give something else a go and having seen a few people do Murky Rib sit start I thought I'd give it a shot. Its a soft 7a being only one move but its really knacky and slightly painful. Surprisingly I was making progress and found myself on the moves you start from standing on, thinking I had it in the bag I got a hand on the top. Then the scrittle fought back and my left hand detached. Go after go the scrittle kept scuppering my ascent my skin was fading but not as badly as Robs, who was suffering with the same issue I had on Pair in a Cubicle when I was trying it with Freddie. The light was fading we had been in the same spot for 3 hours I decided to give Murky Rib SS one last go. Grimacing through the heinous first pull and doing the same sequence through the regular route I got my left hand on the top scrittle then matched, trying to sort my footwork out I swung. Clinging to the scrittle I was smearing with all the grace of a dying fly, until I eventually grabbed the jug at the back I pulled myself up. Jumping back down I was elated I had somehow blagged 2 7a's. What a day. What a year.

Rob in some skin related pain Photo by Me

I have had so many good days its hard to select my favourites but yesterday is definitely one, although I was a little gutted Rob didn't manage Pair in a Cubicle I met a legend and climbed 2 7a's, one of my best days on grit by far. I know climbing isn't about numbers so I shouldn't care but climbing is about the journey from impossible to possible and all 3 7a's have done that for me. They are also really cool problems. I enjoyed the times tradding at the start of the year doing some really cool routes but I never really physically pushed myself so each achievement was a mental one. But now I have managed a 3 7as, an achievement I didn't believe would happen last year, an achievement I didn't think I'd have the strength or skill for. So psyched to keep it going next year, I feel thankful for having good people to climb with, having an abundance of amazing things to climb in the UK and having the ability and time to go climb. Whether its wandering on the moors. loosing skin on the grit or getting scared on a multipich in Wales or the Lakes. I am stoked for another year of climbing.

Rescued

I have always thought of myself as quite a bold climber, I've never really minded runouts and occasionally enjoy soloing. But the other day I reached my limit. On a VS.

A few of the folk from the Uni club had organised a weekend winter walking trip to the Lakes. I was stoked to join and helped manipulate them into fully utilising the weather and location for some multi-pitch climbing. The hut was in Borrowdale, home to some of the most accessible rock in the Lakes. I had to work on the Saturday so drove over on the evening to join them. They had spent the day on Sharp Edge on Blencathra in classic Lakes conditions. It was great to see everyone and spent the evening catching up and organising the next days climbing. As it rained through the night I recommended Shepards Crag as I heard it was quick drying and knew it was roadside. So on the Sunday morning a few groups headed over to do Troutdale Pinnacle and Myself, Freddie, Cindy, Edwin and Andy headed to Shepards. Freddie, Cindy and Andy made tracks for Little Chamonix whilst me and Edwin went for a scramble up Jackdaw ridge. Upon return to the ground we headed to North Buttress to look for dryish rock unfortunately it was a little damp so we headed to Brown slabs. Arriving at the slabs the base was dryish so we set off scrambling up Brown Slabs Direct, a classically polished diff that became wetter the higher up we got adding for a spicy scramble indeed.

Majestic Borrowdale Photo by Me

We decided to leave the climbing for a bit hoping the rock might dry out. After lunch and another run up Jackdaw Ridge to take photos of the group on Little Cham we decided to give Eve a shot. Its VS (5.7ish in American) which according to the guidebook was quite serious. But knowing we can climb a couple grades above we felt confident and the first pitch was dry. Edwin flew up it placing no gear and quickly established the belay, joining him I set off on the second pitch.

I ambled up the groove taking time to place gear due to the rumours of a lack of it on the slab. After placing a solid nut I embarked on the moves onto the slab a really cool little sequence . Once round the arete and on the slab I noticed the holds had the same muddy greasy texture I had found on Brown Slabs. Placing a very dodgy cam I looked to the point at which the belay was supposedly located and set that as my target. Moving across the slab something felt wrong maybe I was too low or maybe the wet rock was knocking my confidence. Sequence after sequence of utterly harrowing greasy desperate moves got me ever closer to the arete with the gear getting further and further away. Standing on a good foothold beneath an overlap I cautiously stood up, I was now in soloing territory. I couldn't fall. Feeling around for a crack or a pocket for gear I was utterly demoralised when the search became fruitless. The rock felt a little drier above the overlap but the moves looked awkward and my shoes were soaked from the slab. I headed towards the arete still beneath the overlap searching in vain for some gear. I reached the precipice looking down into this gully and with no gear within 10 metres and no good gear since the groove I stood there. Balancing one foot on the arete and with the other on a flat but wet hold. I broke down. I was done. I couldn't climb on. I couldn't fall. I was stranded.

After the mental torture of the slab I couldn't face anymore wet runout climbing. I just stood there on the arete contemplating my choices. One idea was to use the rope drag to lower myself down into the gully hoping the rope doesn't flick round and swing me to the ground. I looked up at the belay it couldn't have been more than 3 metres of climbing to the end of the pitch but I just couldn't take it. I have done bolder climbs, I have done wetter climbs and I have done harder climbs. But this is the only time I have ever got myself into such a situation of helplessness. It was not hard climbing just wet, greasy and insecure. Standing on the arete my mind was racing, one minute I was thinking this is safe this is chill the other oh shit I'm going to die. I tried placing some gear in my vicinity nothing was good or inspiring. So I stood there on my island of balance, fear and insecurity.

Freddie Cindy and Erskine on Little Cham Photo By Me

Whilst I was having my mini epic Freddie was dispatching Adam the neighbouring well protected HVS. He had been watching me sketching my way through the wetness and by the time I was on the arete he was nearing the top. He offered to through me one of the ropes once he'd set up and anchor I quickly accepted. I don't know how long I stood there it could've been minutes it could've been hours it was tenuous just standing. Freddie pulled up one of his twin ropes attached a krab and started swinging it towards me. Try after try and it still wasn't within arms reach my position was so precarious I couldn't do anything to help. The pendulum of safety was swinging above my head, like a clock ticking, teasing me I couldn't reach maybe I wouldn't reach and my time was up. It swung left then right scraping the rock then it landed just above my head. I grabbed it. Clipped in. I was safe.

It was over. After a brief attempt at climbing the rest on top rope I asked Freddie to lower me down I was mentally exhausted. Standing on the ground my head was stirring I was feeling embarrassed that I had to be rescued on a VS, annoyed that I couldn't make it to the belay, relieved to be on the ground and thankful to everyone for helping me.

Like a crap version of the Avengers. The rescue team


Looking back on it a day later I am still unsure of what went on. I don't know whether its my recent lack of trad climbing, the wetness of the rock or I went off route. It may have been a combination of them all. It was a good life experience and I'm glad I made a good decision and didn't die. I'm still annoyed that I failed on a VS but it was a good reminder climbing is a dangerous activity and even easy routes can be sketchy.  I am thankful I had friends to rescue and help and I will return to try the route again on a drier day. It was a very successful day of not dying and we all returned laden with more life experience. Isn't that what climbing is about?

Brimham VS Challenge

Everyone loves a challenge, whether it's a crossword at the back of a newspaper, seeing how much you can eat at an all you can eat buffet or doing a bunch of climbs in a day. As humans we are naturally inclined to seek out challenge as it stimulates and motivates us. So when Rob suggested we try and do the YMC Grit Guides 10 Must Do Brimham VS's in a day it caught my interest, but thought we could do more so I chose a couple of extra classics to increase the interest of the day. After a Sunday session of intense bouldering I was hankering for a day tradding, so on the 8th November we got in the car and made tracks for Brimham.

The Ticklist.

It was one of those prime gritstone days the sun was glorious but the temperatures were low, a perfect day for hard gritstone climbing. But not so great for doing a bunch of mid grade trad climbs, but we were committed to the idea. Leaving the car park we made tracks for Maloja, retrospectively the most pleasant climb of the day. Robs lead, smoothly and efficiently he motored up before encountering the recurring crux of the day finding an anchor. Eventually it was time to second and although the air was crisp the rock was warm and inviting, the route itself is stunning really leisurely climbing up some great features. At the top we were excited to have started the adventure but also baffled by the descent options, classic Brimham. Through some mild chimneying we returned to the ground and made haste to Jabberwok Variation. Castle Rock is one of the most impressive lumps of gritstone at Brimham and in the middle there is an eye catching slanting crack this is the line of Jabberwok Variation. The crack itself is straightforward if a little pumpy you then get a rest before the horrifying final chimney. Well its only horrifying if you enter the wrong way round and don't have suitably large gear. Once some poor gear was placed in the remnants of a birds nest I began squirming upwards with the ever present feeling of falling out. Reborn on the top I scoured far and wide for the anchor, finally bringing Rob up we were bathed in sunshine and psyched for what felt like a warm summers day climbing.

Jabberwok Variation Video by Robs Shoe

After a brief stint getting lost we found Allan's Crack and our dreams of a sunny day climbing were shattered it was shady and freezing. Rob made light work or Fag Slab Variant helpfully plugging the handholds with gear. Its a short route and was perhaps our quickest of the day, but next was Allan's Crack a route that has a hard reputation but is actually quite easy. I think the name is misleading as its more of a slab climb. Utilising the undercuts for jugs and some good feet its got a brilliant sequence. I felt strong and then I got to the scrittly finish. With no good gear available and as I was using Robs rack I asked if his cams worked passively he responded with a yes, brilliant that'll do. It's a stunning line and is one of the top VS's I have done. Then it was Robs turn, I couldn't see the start from the belay and as he started climbing I was reading the rope and taking in when necessary then I felt tug, Rob had slipped at the start off the polished holds. Chuckling to myself I lowered him the the 3ft to the floor and he quickly joined me at the top. Rapidly packing we made a beeline for Birch Tree, Right wall and hopefully some sunshine.

Arriving at the base of Birch Tree Wall we were greeted with a rare Brimham sight, there was no one around usually there is at least one person walking or bouldering. Hungry I ate whilst Rob racked up the next two leads were his. A little shaky in places and treating himself to a horrendous amount of rope drag he topped out Birch Tree Wall. Having soloed it before it was nice to do it with a rope even though I climbed it better without. Right Wall looks uninviting from the bottom, green walls with the polished line standing out like a gem no one wants. Rob started up the route extending gear this time, when he got the crux crack he looked nervous and spent a while placing gear. I was wary he looked like he might drop it. But once the gear was sorted he fought valiantly upwards to the final crux straddling leftwards to the top. It was great to watch I was psyched for my turn, as I got to the cruxy finger crack I somehow managed to layback and yarded up. The crux turned out to be the top out where I almost left my arm behind as the jam was too good. Rob was psyched these were his hardest leads done, I was psyched but mine were still to come. Whilst I was belaying a local boulderer started chatting too me, we divulged our plan for the day at the mention of the routes he laughed that we had chosen to add Notice Board Crack and wished us luck. I needed it Central Crack was next and it was my lead.

Whilst I racked up Rob ate, he had done Central Crack before and knew what lay in store. The start is simple and the middle is a divine hand crack but the top is desperate, classic Brimham. You get a good rest and cam placement before the slopey wide top out. Unfortunately the best cam placement was exactly where my leg needed to be so I lowered it. Making for a bigger fall but gave me a chance to make upward progress. Pulling on slopers and jamming my knee I reached for a fist jam it stuck and that was it I was committed. 5 minutes of groveling commence and I pulled myself over. What a VS. Rob knowing the tricks of it made light work and didn't even fully offwidth. Right Hand Crack was Robs choice for his penultimate lead, its quite strenuous but with steady jams. As he tentatively made progress I could see his psyche was waning, I knew once he had done this it'd be plain sailing for him. He surmounted the final awkward move then it was my turn.  As I started seconding I could feel the wear of the day on my arms. Not a lot of climbs but all awkward and slightly strenuous. When we were back down we discussed the doubts we had about completing the day. We had started at 10.30am it was now 3pm and we still had 4 routes to do, all challenging in their own right and with 90 minutes of daylight left it was going to be tough. But being optimists Rob quickly sent Parallel Cracks, his last lead of the day and in some style. The last move is the trickiest and he crushed it I think his best lead of the day he made it look simple. Copying his moves I blasted up it. Then I knew it was all on me. I knew Rob could do the climbs, he had done most of them before and seconding would be no problem. But I haven't lead much recently and to do them quickly would require some real efficiency. I think I was over thinking, it was no big deal the routes would be easy. How hard can a Brimham VS be?

Lancet Crack was next. Hidden at the back corner of a gully this overhanging finger crack somehow gets VS. Excited and with a little gear beta from Rob I set off. Bloody hell its overhanging, quick get some cams in, grab the next hold ahh its a jug hang around get some gear and go for the crux. My hand reaches for the thin hanging crack its polished I keep bumping it up, fingers slipping I should've jammed I think I'm going to drop it then I latch the jug. Its over, placing a little more gear and fighting some scrittle I top it out. So you think you can climb VS? After Rob joined me we made the crux descent and we noticed the light was fading, running over to Notice Board I was psyched. Squirming up the initial crack I was enjoying myself this felt easy, pouring myself onto the ledge below the final crack I was ready the cam should fit, it'll be easy. The cam did fit at the bottom and the crack was green. Throwing my hat and jacket to the top and clipping the gear to the cam I swim up. Its traditional but a cake walk compared to whats been. Rob soon joined me he was psyched it was almost over, we had almost done it. But.

Rough Wall was the finale. It was dark. Its 4.30pm. Bloody winter, Headtorch on I start up. The first moves feel tricky there's not much for the feet then I feel the slip and fall. Luckily I was about 1ft off the ground but doubt started to creep in, maybe we had bitten off more than we can chew. Staying cheery I go again, its cold placing gear freezes my fingers, the climb is well chalked and pretty steady. I traverse the breaks to the final crack, the crux. I place some gear and adjust my headtorch by now the feeling in my hand is totally gone. I layback and slap the frozen lump of hand to the top hoping for something good knowing there is 50/50 chance I'll fall. It sticks, its over, we have done it. Just get Rob up and we are done, he makes light work and cruises to the top. Its done 6 hours and 38 minutes car to car not to bad. But it's not really about time or grade, it was a great day in great weather doing some absolutely classic routes. I'd recommend it to anyone who thinks they can climb VS.

Our stats and times of the day

Here is the UKC ticklist for those interested. https://www.ukclimbing.com/logbook/set.php?id=2276

Oh To Be Out

Its Friday, I'm on the train to Manchester happy about my destination, less so about the journey. As the train pierces through the countryside I see the Moors out my window, the dying bracken enclosed by the rich blue autumn sky and the rich green pastures that cover the ground. I know in a few hours I'll be passing through the Pennines. Oh to be on the grit or sandstone on a day like today with skin hardened from the cold and spirits lifted by the sun.


The recent memory of last nights climbing at Clemitts offers brief respite from the drudgery of the train. A glorious evening with the dying light laced with the smoke of the heather that burns so violently on the horizon. But I look back down and I'm on the train, I hear the drunken voices of teenagers heading to York for the sole purpose of drinking. What a use of day like this. Still I'm on a train throwing away one of the few perfect days you have in a British autumn.


But the goal is justified I'm heading to Manchester to drive to Wales with my University Mountaineering Club, a good reason I'm sure but it still feels like a wasted day. I wish I was out. I suppose this is what it'd like to have a job. Sitting all day, just sitting slowly aging. Whilst the golden opportunity slips away and the dream of climbing on a crisp sunny day becomes that a dream, a wistful myth of the days that could have been. Oh to feel the bite of the grit or sandstone. Oh to be bouldering, tradding or walking. Oh to be out

Moor in Depth

Seen as my little blog on the moors was my most popular, I decided to follow it up with one a little more in depth and brimming with anecdotes. Enjoy what may end up reading like a selection of short stories.

Scugdale- Crisp sandstone, fleeting glimpses of golden light and the ever changing temperature of midsummer England. This is a roadside crag, well kind of. Its 10 minutes from the village of Swainby up a single track road that definitely warrants a hefty e grade. Then a pleasant 10 minute hike up the hill to the most popular end of the crag, a virtually continuous band of high moor sandstone called Scots crag. Because of the height almost all routes are amenable to solo above pads which is what we went for. A warm up was in order and as Rob read the guidebook I took a scramble up a little VS( I say little the tallest this crag gets is 10 metres), which been the moors was pretty stiff for for VS slightly overhanging and with some scrittly slopers it was the perfect warm up. Eve right hand is a one of the most aesthetic lines I've seen, an arete that would be the most classic of classics were it in the Peak. Sublime laybacking and then a slightly awkward highstep that coupled with the unpleasant landing really makes you question your life choices, but I'm young dumb and full of uhh fun? So I pressed on stood up latched the jug and went along on my merry business. Warmed by the intermittent sun and brimming with stoke we managed to polish off almost 30 routes all perfect portraits in sandstone. After a couple of hours I was feeling strong and like I could onsight Indian Face so I set off up Bonzo a mild HVS that was a supposed one move wonder. Which it was but it just wasn't the move I was expecting, so when I pulled through what I thought was the hard move I found myself stranded half way up the wall. With my only options for escape being either upwards or doing a reverse high step mantle. Obviously I chose to stand there for about a week chalking up, feeling holds, getting a tan, having fun and hoping the move wouldn't seem so daunting. Eventually I set off on what turned out to be a slightly smeary slightly crimpy ladder to the top. Elated I told Rob how great it was. I don't think he believed me and declined to follow suit. After what seemed like an age but also a second it was time to go, fingers tender from the warm love of the sandstone and minds racing with the distance covered we left. Many things to return to and many things to repeat.

Highcliffe Nab- The greenest, dirtiest and hardest crag within view of a Lidl. Its the classic hard crag of the area for the generations preceding me most of the hardest routes are there. But I didn't go for them on my first visit I was there to do some bouldering and easy soloing. Which was lovely apart from the block I was bouldering on was littered with broken glass thanks to the generosity of some local neds. The soloing was pleasant and I did the classic Severe of Highcliffe crack which is just pure pleasantness. But the line that drew my eye was a HVS/E1 offwidth called Scarecrow Crack done in the 50's it has the ever endearing appeal of a classic struggle. So returning with my dad to belay, my big cam and an insufficient warm up I set off. Pulling on I really should've taken note of how gritty, sandy and slightly damp the rock felt but psyche is an overruling power. So after some overly dynamic moves and a gear placement I reached the base of the offwidthy bit. Already pumped I switched from the comfort of the chicken wing(climbing technqiue makes your arm look like a chicken wing) to a layback because my best gear placement was where the best chicken wing was. With the ever growing pump rendering my arms almost useless I udged upwards inch by inch legs scrabbling their way to follow the chicken wing that had pulled me that far. Then the crack ran out and although I could reach the ledge it was a) sandy b)green c) wet and I was a) pumped b) stuck and c)f**cked. I tried my hardest to adjust my hand to take the strain and allow a possible mantel onto the ledge, with my hand finally in an acceptable place I faced the next issue, my right leg was stuck in the crack. So trying to do it in one swift motion I tried to rotate into a layback freeing my leg and allowing me a better position to mantel. It didn't work. I threw my leg out with too much force and I could feel myself losing contact. Flying headfirst towards the slab my first thought was my helmets in my rucksack and I hope that cams high enough to stop me decking. Luckily it was, unluckily in the fight to stop the fall I'd locked the chicken wing so tight I still have a scar on my arm 3 months later. Annoyed at myself for falling so close to a rest I went and set up an abseil to retrieve the gear. As I lowered down the grassy slope I could only think one thing. Thank god I fell off. The top was dripping also it was vertical grass and the top crack was to wide for any of my cams. So although the fall was unpleasant at least I didn't have to solo up another offwidth and then climb the wet grass equivalent of the Meltdown. A great day was had by all it had everything bad climbing, pump and a fall. Its one to remember I didn't land on Dad, aren't cams amazing and offwidths are rad.

Park Nab- The best crag in the UK. Well its not but it is pretty cool, a personal favourite because its where I started climbing and it gives a good basis for comparison as the rock doesn't change(editors note- yes it does half this crag fell down in 1994). I've soloed most of the routes that I used to top rope so that's good progress. Well almost there is one I thought impossible I couldn't even top rope it, its called Pinnacle Face. It's an eliminaty kind of thing in the fact you could fridge hug it all the way up, but ethically that's not the correct way to do it, but you can use a bit of the right arete here and there. Anyway I did mange to top rope it a few times last summer but I still haven't got round to either soloing it or leading it. I think the start move is a British 5c slab move then it gets way easier but its slightly overhanging and often green at the top. I have set off leading it but I'd spent to long getting pumped on a self imposed boulder eliminate that whilst amazing was pretty pointless and I had to bail on Pinnacle face. Another project of mine is a great bouldery roof that I tried top roping last year called Dangle I think it gets e2 6a and I could not for the life of me figure out how to pull through the roof. This year I flashed it I suppose that's either progress or luck. But it is a place I go not for the route, grade, line or send its usually to spend time with my Dad as he enjoys the top roping there and I think what he gets is nostalgia and its the same for me, the rose tinted goggles at the routes he used to solo and the enjoyment he gets just from top roping them. I think that's why I have shifted my view of the place to stop going there for a specific challenge just go enjoy the experience and be.

Kay Nest- I think this is one of the most remote crags in the Moors. You park at Chop Gate village hall walk through some fields some containing bulls and some contain dead sheep. Then you head over the hill and down into Tripsdale. Its an idyllic Moors valley crowned with heather, an aterial stream running through it and the crag shrouded by trees with boulders littering the ground below it. We didn't bother heading to the crag although there look to be some good lines we were there for the bouldering as it looked stellar. Myself and Rob were thoroughly psyched by having this massive playground of boulders all to ourselves. Warming up on this slab the rock was achingly beautiful the most fine grained sandstone I have seen only shrouded in a little scrittle it was a brilliant warm up. Our sights were firmly set on the ship stone a great 5 meter high block with perfect face climbing and as it turns out the worlds hardest font 5 boulder problem. From a marginal matched crimp utilising the sloper for your feet you lunge upwards to a less than perfect hold. This 5 felt harder than a 6c I did later in the day, it took me so long to get it I was pumped out my mind trying to do the final moves. But somehow managing to claw back any remnants of strength I managed to flop over the top, amazing boulder though. After we had pretty much completed the east face of the ship we headed deep into the woods in search of boulders. We got lost, utilising my never ending psyche as a navigational tool meant we went too deep into the woods. We did see a 8b boulder problem and an unclimbed arete that looks like the sweetest line in the moors. After running down hill through bracken, getting attacked by trees and eventually me running straight into a waist high bog we found the boulders we were after. There was brilliant slabby arete that required a committing pop for the top, lying next to the reason I had bushwacked so hard a 6c boulder that utilised my two favourite types of climbing monos and aretes. I expected a serious battle but I got it 2nd go which was great, if not slightly disappointing for you the reader and me the climber. I wanted a fight, I wanted to dislocate my middle finger trying to hard but oh well I suppose you do have to win some. Walking back unsure of the time that had past and slowly edging towards the civilised world, I felt like we were leaving somewhere special. Somewhere you can return in 20 years and it won't have changed, sure the lines may get harder but the magic won't leave.

Wainstones- Its the crag most people know and it is the classic moors crag steeped in history with problems and lines from John Redhead to Steve McClure, containing some classic features such as the Sphinx, Steeple and Needle. Its even good enough for the outdoor centres to come and let kids top rope classics in muddy boots( but that's a different gripe). I have been there for easy soloing and some picnics as a kid but I'd never been to boulder. Redheads roof immediately caught my eye like it says on the tin its a roof and to get over it you need to mantle using a decent foothold but a very indecent crimp, I couldn't get it (also if you haven't seen it watch clown assending a great if mental film about John Redhead). We still managed to tick the classic slabs and overhangs there is such a variety its hard to get bored there, because if you're bored of the bouldering there is some amazing trad routes to try. Anyway under the guise of going to look at the holds we wandered down to The Prow a stunning 7a boulder problem that looked nails, however upon closer inspection I noticed the holds were massive and I could actually do a move or two it just became crossed the line from impossible to possible. Upon my next visit I headed towards the crag facing the Wainstones, it is called Cold Moor. Where there as an abundance of great quiet lines, I did the most sublime HS called Beak Ridge great movement in a sublime position. But that was just a warm up for the 7a, where once the cow pat directly under the starting hold had been dealt with I managed to make the amazing progress of one extra move. Baby steps. Its really not my forte big powerful moves in roofs but it looks so good and feels just the right side of possible that I am willing to spend even more time projecting it. Which for someone as impatient as me is a big statement. There isn't much to say about this place that hasn't been said its classic, its varied and its popular(well for the Moors).

Tranmire- The latest of the crags I have visited my initial thoughts were the main crag is wet glad I came for the boulders. But the wall that immediately caught mine and Robs eye was the short buttress next to the wall at the north end of the main crag. A enigmatic blank wall flanked by a couple of cracks and laced with a break and a flake. I couldn't work out the direct start so I approached it from the crack on the right a little HVS called Thug leaning across from a good jug I engaged the flake, crimp crimp swing the foot out then latch the jug. Great only the top bit to do, ohh the holds have ran out quick bail, jump down to the pads hope they don't slide down the hill again, safe on the pad I begin to relax then it slides down the hill. This stunning crag and boulder field has the most classic of all Moors problems. The guidebook says pull jump or dyno to the lip then beach whale to finish. If that doesn't make you want to climb it I don't what would. An elegant hanging wedge is gained by a reach for me then once purchase was gained, I flopped onto the slab and with moves reminiscent of a 90's breakdancer I wiggled your way up hill (if you would like to see the footage get in contact its short but sweet). A brilliant crag with some definite gems and some projects to return for. What other reason do you want to go than worming your way up hill. Poetic prose cannot define or describe the technique needed but a fun day was had so we have succeeded.

Well I hope you enjoyed that. If you have any questions or would like some more info on the Moors( or just want to see the video of that problem at tranmire) get in touch at joe.foster59@yahoo.co.uk.

NYM Sandstone, Moor Than Meets The Eye

Like Font but hate slopers? Like Stanage but think 20 metres is too high, like granite but wish more holds broke on you. Then the North Yorkshire Moors is for you.

Okay I may be exaggerating about the breaking holds(although I won't say it hasn't happened) and yes it may be small but the climbing on the Moors is some of the best in country. Now a little context, why am I suddenly displaying an interest in this area. Well since finishing uni I am back home in the uneven job market of the North East and as you can tell by the last blog unsure of what I'm doing. So I have been spending as much time as possible getting out into the Moors usually bouldering as its easier and the crags really lend themselves to semi highballing. The North Yorkshire Moors is a national park south of Middlesbrough and north of Scarbrough mainly compromising of heather, sandstone outcrops, quaint villages and a crumbly coastline, its less than an hour from York and less than 2 from Sheffield or Manchester. Being on the right side of the Pennines means the weather is usually better than the Peak and Lakes and not being close to big cities means its often quieter than the Peak.

Classic moors scene Photo By Me

As an even youthier youth the Moors was my introduction to outdoor climbing heading up to the micro crag of Park Nab to top rope with the local scout group. This was our go to crag and occasionally we would head to Scugdale, a mini Burbage north with face after face of immaculate rock and uncomfortable landings. But we were top roping and although I enjoyed these days climbing wasn't high on my teenage priority list. Having discovered my love for climbing at uni, last summer a little wiser and a little older I returned to these little gems. Although it was great to be back I didn't have half the equipment or experiance I have now so I spent more time doing the easier solo, lowball or top roping session. Although I did manage to solo most of the routes that we used to top rope at Park Nab so it wasn't all bad.

Scugdale Sunset Photo By Me

But this summer armed with the shittest crash pad go outdoors had to offer(Freddie whom I bought it off) I have discovered some new crags, revisited old crags and with the benefit of comparisons (mainly to Peak crags) my eyes have opened to the monster climbing found within these short sandstone walls. Although I've had a couple of setbacks one been a whipper off a dank offwidth lmost landing on my Dads head and the other an unsuccessful attempt on a slabby wall climb that I deemed impossible as a youth. But apart from these and the whole reason  for this shitshow of a blog is I've had some monster sessions on some of the greatest rock I've ever climbed on. Perhaps my best evening out was at Scugdale(Scots Crag) perfect weather and I got about 30 routes in. Its the perfect height 8mts at its highest so if you place a crash pad and don't fall off and you never need a rope. Its perfect there aren't many routes harder than E1 so perfect for the average climber. The solitude you get is amazing at such a lovely  crag in thePeak you'd be fighting for routes with shitty sticks. Its a 10 minute walk in and you couldn't ask for a greater evening venue just to get some mileage in.

Tripesdale Photo By Me

At the other end of the spectrum was a trip to the Wainstones the classic crag of the area with a fairly gentle 30 minute walking and some stellar classic routes one but the reason I've been there for is the amazing boulder problems. Blank slabs, dirty traverses, awful offwidths and one of the best f7as I've tried a super steep jug fest that is so proud and well worth calling in for.  But the walk in is nothing compared to Kays Nest at around 50 minutes the walk in is worthy of the Lake District, but the bouldering is stunning and the setting is unrivalled. Perfect sandstone boulders with so many amenable problems and the recurring theme of the Moors solitude.

The Prow f7a Photo By Rob

I've been climbing with a strong local climber called Rob who has been great company and provided the vital North Yorkshire Moors Bouldering guide. For those who don't mind the odd ground fall I'd recommend trying some of Franco's new lines he is really at the vanguard of Moors climbing. Okay his was a bit rambly but what I'm trying to say is get out to the Moors if you don't want to trek up to Northumberland but want some stellar sandstone or if you're bored of the crowds at Stanage and Almscliffe. Or just go because its Great.

Solitude, Sending, Sandstone.

So This Is Life Now

So this is life now. The memories of university are fading away and the lurking presence of the real world is hovering over me. The British summer is all it usually is, just glimpse's of sunshine followed by lashings of grey and wet. Holidays have came and went, the funds have dried up and I'm back in the familiarity of my parents home. What am I doing with my life?

The trip to Poland seems like a lifetime ago, a short family trip with the promise of some climbing in Avon Gorge has came and went, with any hopes of climbing quashed by the apparent British monsoon season. I am looking for a job, but what am I actually looking for? Ideally I want to spend as much time climbing as possible and any spare time playing guitar. But this is real life. No matter how many people say it, living off nothing and climbing all the time doesn't really work in the north of England. The crags are sporadic and the weather a depressing cycle of wet windy with the occasional glimpse of blue and gold, all the while repressing any notion of an all climbing lifestyle.

I am not good enough to spend all my time climbing, but that is the only way I'll get better. Its a paradox I'll have to overcome. I'd be lying if said I hadn't been able to get out all summer, I have had some good sessions in the moors. Mainly bouldering but I got a good session at Highcliffe Nab doing some trad with my dad. I got brutally spanked by a stiff HVS(low E1 same thing) called Scarecrow Crack a really fun overhanging offwidth, which spat my out within inches of the biggest ledge since Alex Honnold. Resulting in a substantial whipper, a slightly bemused father and a underlying frustration with my own ability.

So what am I doing. I am looking for a job, I'm trying to climb and I'm really trying to not get to frustrated at how dismal my climbing performance is or how soul destroying the weather is. I am getting on, I am getting through because whatever happens it was meant to happen. Everything works out in the end, as long as you try your best to do what you can.

So I'll climb. So I'll look for a job. This is life now.

Rock Climbing In The Polish Jura- A Tale Of Polish, Pierogis and Premium Lines Part 2

The towel was still there.

Safely back at our tent after the harrowing walk home we planned the next days climbing. We would do another route on Sokalica. So the next morning we got up and headed to the base of the climb. But the psyche was surprisingly low. So in stark contrast from normal behaviour we decided to leave the adventure and have a chilled day sport climbing. So that's what we did, we spent hours failing on nice 20m high sport climbs. But the need to do something cool on Sokolica was still gnawing away at us, so after lunch we headed up to the base. However there were a couple of guys starting up the route we had eyed up and they were going really slow. With us not knowing the Polish for we climb quicker we couldn't ask politely to push in front. Onto plan D there was a crag we hadn't been to called Brandysowa behind the campsite that had a supposed 3 star 6b+, heading down I was more psyched than Edwin who just seemed to want a grilled lunch. Upon arrival he was right to be less than psyched the first half was a chossy scramble, then about halfway up it flipped from chossy gully of death into hardcore limestone slab climbing. This coincided with where the route exited the trees and emerged into full sunshine. This also coincided with me remembering that I wasn't actually a good climber and that this was kind of hard. After relentlessly bashing my head against it I let Edwin have a go, after a while he raised the high point a bit but eventually accepted heat stroke based defeat. Once suitably organised at the base we raced back for the weekend grill at the campsite. Unfortunately it closed at 6pm, gutted we drowned our sorrows in pierogis and went for a walk to a nearby bat cave. Getting to the gates we discovered it was actually a proper tourist attraction and wasn't open at 10pm, 8 miles later we were back in the tent and suitably destroyed from our late night leg day.

Prepared mountaineers Photo By Edwin George

As another day dawned and after the obligatory breakfast of scrambled eggs, coffee and banana cake was obliterated we received a message from Kasia (a Polish climber who we had met a couple of days prior). She said she would be climbing at a crag called Kula in Dolina Koblyanska and we may come. So we trotted off down the road which was a much easier path to follow in the light. Upon arrival at the crag she pointed us to 3 climbs she thought we would like. They were awesome, muddy, slabby and best of all short. For us British climbers anything over 18m is too much and we pump out. We nailed the 5+ and 6a in quick succesion then did the 6b after two goes. All the routes were great and the top was a mud bank to the final boulder and then the lower offs, which I enjoyed but Edwin almost got his new shoes dirty which would've been a disaster. After success at the crag we decided we wanted to get Shitzroy in as well. It was amazing. We later found out its called Gran Bolekowiche and its pretty much a scramble. I'd say it was a British grade of VDiff it isn't bolted but that doesn't matter because soloing it is pretty safe, just be careful of the ants on the way down. We had a much needed lie down after and decided to try and climb a couple of routes. I dogged my way up something 6cish. I want to blame the pressure of the crowd watching for me blowing the onsight but I'm just crap. We also managed to find the worlds most polished climb it was practically marble but juggy and fun. In the UK it would definitely be a trad route but here it had a bolt every metre or so. Still unsure of bolting routes that could be done with gear hmm ethics. Unfortunately for this blog the walk back was uneventful mainly due to the remembrance of head torches.

Lost Photo By Edwin

On our exploration day we had scrambled to the top of this crag in Dolina Koblyanska with a cross on top, we went to have a look at the valley from a good vantage point. We could see a ton of killer lines and a months worth of objectives. There was also an amazing looking line up the Cross Crag or Zabikon as it was actually called. So on the Monday we made the trip down to that line, its a fairly pleasant 4 that once again could of been done on trad gear, but we were on holiday so bolts make for a more chilled atmosphere. The bolts also meant I could race up the first couple of pitches and set up the belay before the final cool pitch on the main head wall. Edwin's amazing route reading lead him astray on the second pitch and found himself on a really cool  and exposed 5, which was super chill easy and fun but wasn't technically on route. But once again we were on holiday so no need to stick religiously to the route(this doesn't mean I didn't rip into him for his route reading skills, he didn't hear the end of it).

Edwin Climbing Photo By Me

From the top of Zabikon you can see this perfect blank piece of limestone. Psyched by the idea of desperate limestone blankness we headed over. Obviously the first thing I went for was the grotty hand crack and offwidth in the corner, both routes were bolted, once again unsure of this ethically but it made for a new experience. Note to those interested, limestone and gritstone offwidths are chalk and cheese, there are near to no rests on limestone as you just keep slipping back down but you get to keep all your skin so its not all bad. The hand crack was great fun and once again even more slippery than Michael Gove. Crisis happened when I got to a crucial jam and shoved my hand behind me for some chalky goodness, only to realise my chalkbag was closed. Unable to open it I just had to bite down and power through. Both routes were about 5 and would make pretty sound VS's. Turning our attention back to the blank face we picked the easiest line which came out at about 7a. Super polished and super fun I managed my hardest clip ever, somehow managing to clip a bolt of a two finger pocket with super skatey feet not a bad effort for a crap climber. Using team dog tactics we managed to push through to the top after an hours work.  Then it started spitting which was all the encouragement we needed to go for pizza and beer.

Looking Over To Shitzroy Photo By Edwin

On the Tuesday we went for our final trip over to Dolina Koblyanska to meet Kasia and Ana, they took us to a shady crag which was perfect on such a warm day. I started off by scrambling up this 4+ chimney in my approach shoes(La Sportiva TX4's for those interested). We then spent the rest of th day some cool if slightly chossy routes, before I ended getting really pissed off at a 6C+ I couldn't do in full sun. Why am I so shit? Finishing the day with a barefoot scramble up another 4, this with only minor ant attacks and me kicking a rock on the walk back down was a great end to the trip.

Home Photo By Edwin

Back to the point of this blog, reviewing the Polish climbing areas. So my overall opinion on my trip to the Jura, its really good. The rock may not be perfect and there isn't the abundance of hard climbs like there is in Spain but its a really good alternative. I like to compare the rock to Peak Limestone but a little bit better, its not perfect but it still provides a great adventure. The climbing overall is perfect for someone operating in the average 6a sort of grade, somehow all objectives we set ourselves was amenable if a little challenging at times, making it perfect for us average climbers. The weather at this time of year is all so much more bearable than it would have been in Spain, its on a similar latitude to Font but being more continental its a bit less damp. The people are so friendly and the food and accommodation is the perfect price for a climber especially been so close to the climbing.

Zabikon Photo By Edwin

So Poland it may not top everyone's list of the best sport climbing destinations. But if you're on a budget and looking for somewhere different its a great shout. Like Peak Limestone but with more easy classics a little more polished and so much rock you'll be spoiled for choice. If you want Pierogis, Pizza, Pivo and Perfect Projects Poland is for you.

Rock Climbing In The Polish Jura- A Tale Of Polish, Pierogis and Premium Lines Part 1

Poland, its not the first place you think of when you think of world class sport climbing destinations, even the locals told us 'our rock is not so good', but for us it provided a convenient adventure, that was different yet familiar and amazingly affordable.

I'll start from the beginning about 2 months ago Edwin was rallying everyone up to the idea of a climbing trip abroad during the summer. We looked at the classic destinations of France Italy and Spain, then out of nowhere we decided to look at crags near Krakow. To our surprise there was an abundance of limestone cliffs about 30 minutes from the city. With very little information apart from a few photos and a website that indicated the campsite was going to be very cheap, we started looking for flights to Krakow.

Leaving behind the rain Photo by Me

Cheap flights to Krakow booked, bags packed, bus times checked and although we had no guidebook or expectations the psyche was high. Skip to the day of the flights both up early getting trains from our respective homes in Kendal and Marske. I arrived at Manchester airport about 3 hours before the flight enough time to grab a coffee before Edwin was meant to arrive (roughly 15 minutes after I got there). But as I started my coffee I got a text from him saying 'the train has stopped'. But it was chill we still had just under 3 hours until the plane took off. 45 minutes passed as had a flurry of texts and many sips of coffee but Edwin was still trapped just outside Manchester on his train. Boarding for our plane closed at 11.25am, so as it got to 10.30am I started looking at weather in the Lake District partially accepting defeat, then the phone rang. Edwin was moving again so we were discussing the fine details of the military operation we would have to pull make our flight. All of sudden Edwin said he had to go, something was wrong. 10 minutes later I got a text from him saying wait by baggage drop off. At 10.50am a bedraggled Edwin was running through the airport towards me shaking his head. We quickly sorted our gear out threw the bag into check in and ran through security, as we got through we saw the gate number and set off sprinting through the airport. We got to the gate. We were the first there.

Polish Fields Photo by Me

After the train debacle, a pleasant flight, a couple of buses and a 1 mile walk with Edwin's cumbersome suitcase we arrived at Brandysowka Campsite. This amazing bit of civilization in the biggest clearing in a densely wooded valley is carefully watched over by Sokolica, an amazing 60mt high limestone wall that towers over the campsite. It reminded me of High Tor in the Peak District and that was the first of the similarity between the Jura and Peak limestone. We set up camp and dined on the awesome Polish food that the campsite sold, belly's full of pierogis, beer and bigos we hit the hay psyched for our first adventure.

Attempt at a from the tent photo Photo by Me

We woke up and escaped from the soggy sweat box that was our tent and looked up, towering above us was the days objective Lot Na Brandysa. The classic line up Sokolica, its a VI on the local grading system called the Kurtyka Scale. This we discovered after a lot of asking and reading works out at around French 6a or around 5.9/5.10 in American. This seemed like an amenable grade for our first day so we ventured up. After some deliberation Edwin won the lead for the first pitch(well pitch 1 + 2 that we would string together), after a few near slips on the unbelievably slippery limestone he reached the belay. A little dehydrated I set off on the second it was very polished (maybe even more than Stoney Middleton) but quite juggy. Upon arriving at the belay ledge I was ready to throw up, maybe it was the lack of water or the tiredness, but either way I manned/womaned up and set off on my lead. After a wrong turn or two I ended up on the right line, an amazing chimney to the top of this pillar, with unbeatable exposure then an airy step across onto the easy final slab. Amazing. With our main objective complete we had lunch, went for a walk and ended up at the single pitch crag that all the locals seemed to be at. We did a couple of easy things but then ended up trying to project this route that felt absolutely nails. We later found out that it was equivalent to 7c/+ which just goes to show how useful a guidebook is and how little we understand the Kurtyka scale.

Sokolica Photo by Me

The next day we woke up to the unmistakable sound of rain hitting the tent, deciding the day would probably be a washout we decided to explore the valleys and crags of the area. Before leaving I threw my towel over a beam in the communal shelter. We walked from the campsite through the nearby village of Bedkowice and down into the valley that contains Dolina Koblyanska, one of the most crag filled valleys in the area. As you walk through the valley the dense woodland gives way to an open clearing flanked on either side by walls of limestone. Some of the best limestone lines we had seen (but British limestone doesn't set the bar that high) and only 30 minutes from the campsite. But even more remarkably the rock had dried in record time. Passing a pizza place and bar we made a note to make a stop there on the return journey. Walking from town to town we eventually decided to work our way back, Edwin drew a line on the map so we could pass the crags of Dolina Bolechowicka on the way. Unfortunately this line didn't correspond to any paths, and after running through what I assume was someones backyard and a very dense woodland we emerged at a cliff edge. He was right, this was where we wanted to be it was just a case of getting down. Carefully scrambling down the ridge we could see another amazing ridge line on the other side of the valley, not knowing its name we named Shitzroy as it looked like a mini version of the famous Patagonian mountain. We would have to return for that.

Dolina Bolechowicka Photo by Me

That evening after a dinner of pizza and beer we bumped it a couple of Polish climbers who we had seen at the previous days crag. They spoke English so we stayed there and chatted for a good couple of hours, comparing experiences of Polish climbing and English climbing and lives of students in both country's it was great. Then it started to get dark. Being the prepared mountaineers we are we had a very bad map and no head torch. But what could go wrong. It started off fairly easy following a road, then due to the lack of scale on the map we turned down this dusty track, only to find out it only lead to a horse farm. With darkness ever encroaching we decided to skirt round the edge of the farm and pick our way through the woods. This was challenging, with no path and with the fear we may be trespassing, we didn't look back and charged head first through the thinnest part of the trees. The last glimmer of sunlight had gone and the moonlight was being blocked out by the ever enshrouding tees. Then we were through and once again in someones back yard so we ran as fast as we could then and thankfully we hit the road. Sweet safety. But there were no streetlights and the forest was dense our imaginations were running wild. Then something darted across the road. Was it a wolf? Are there wolves in Poland? Would we make it back alive? Would my towel still be there?

The Peak District It's Not Just About Stanage

During the recent heatwave I spent 5 days in the Peak District for Freddies birthday. As we had so much time we decided to head to Staffordshire to climb at the roaches, this is an amazing temple of gritstone it is one of the greatest places to climb in the UK. But due to the intense heatwave we ended up also exploring some of the shadiest crags in the Peaks. So what is this blog about well its about exploration of already explored territory going into the known unknown. In other words it is pointless just like climbing.

I've visited the roaches a few times before and always been super impressed with the quantity of quality lines. Been a slab lover it has some of the most enticing lines I've seen, which meant I was super psyched, unfortunately the weather was way to hot for friction smearing. So upon arrival I managed to climb Sloth a super intimidating HVS that I had fallen off on a previous trip due to rain soaking the upper jugs. It is the line of the crag and maybe the line on grit, super easy, super scary and super fun. I was ultra stoked to get this as its been on the cards a while. This was one of the only trad routes I managed in the whole 5 days we were away. It was so hot that bouldering in the shade was the only way we could keep from dying of heatstroke, especially with our resident ginger shade was imperative.

Me On Sloth Photo By Freddie

On the Sunday having spent the Saturday trying to follow the shade around the Roaches we head to Chee Dale to fail on slippery limestone. This may sound like a stupid plan but it was shaded and most importantly had a river to run into in a desperate effort to cool down. Walking down the Dale we were all struck with how beautiful and otherworldly it felt. This densely wooded dale with white bastions of limestone felt like a far cry from the desolate moors above Stanage yet it was less than 20 miles away. Wandering through the dale looking at the guidebook we noticed most routes were above our current limit, but this left us inspired and feeling a want to improve just to be able to climb in such a stunning place. We were wondering why Peak Limestone gets a bad reputation I assume its the polish, looseness and lack of classic easy lines. But the ability to climb in such beautiful locations is surely a good enough reason to utilise the limestone we have.

Another way to avoid the heat was to climb at night as it was Freddies birthday on the Sunday him me and Oscar decided to climb Valkyrie a classic VS at the Roaches. They were both stoked, I was knackered internally unwilling but my sense of adventure was to strong to turn it down. We got to the base around 11pm and soloed the easy first pitch. Because it was his birthday Freddie got the lead of the classic second pitch. Freddie having never lead the route before and due to the darkness managed to find a 5c way round a 4c move, claiming it to be harder than the dangler( a classic Joe Brown E2) he found a place to belay and started to get it ready. Unfortunately sitting on a belay ledge only increased my tiredness and due to the nature of the pitch (a traverse above an overhang) it was inadvisable to fall off. So when it came to seconding and feeling like someone had just woken me up, I managed to abandon any technique and just scrap my way through, much to the horror of Oscar who was watching from the belay ledge. The other two only noticed my tiredness when we were walking down and I was mumbling about tories and anarchism. Not taking the hint they decided they felt up for another climb, Central Climb(HS 4c) on Hen Cloud. I elected to lead the first pitch (only 4b but I had backed down soloing it early in the day). It was easy but I felt revived and ready to smash through it, until I'd sat on a belay ledge for another 30 minutes. I did manage to haul myself to the top and it was a great adventure with great friends so it was worth it. Probably.

Suffering but still smiling Photo by Freddie

Another brilliant crag we visited was in the Churnet Valley another shady beautiful valley not far from Alton Towers. It seems to be one of the only Sandstone crags in the Peaks(unless you count grit as a type of sandstone) even though it isn't really sandstone, its more like conglomerate loads of pebals magically held into the rock and loads of holes where pebbles once were. This provides such a great contrast to the slippery limestone and the skin destroying grit all the while in an idyllic Jurassic setting. The climbing is mainly bouldering on big blocks with really great rock and a very sandy base we spent all day there and the approaches are easy and the climbing is super lovely pockets and pebble pulling. The only issue is sometimes you develop option paralysis due to the over abundance of holds. A great crag that was really good for shaded bouldering.

Sloth in Sunset Photo By Me

So what is the point well I think what I'm trying to say is don't get sucked into going to the same crag over and over, even in a concentrated area such of the Peak District as we discovered there is such variety of rock, style and countryside. As we found out there is more to the Peaks than Stanage, so as climbing is inherently an exploratory sport go and explore the explored and go into the known unknown.

Sorry there hasn't been much climbing in this blog but it was like 90 million degrees and we just sat in the shade bouldering in between dying of heatstroke. It was a great weekend though celebrated Freddies birthday in style with Oscar, Cindy, Sophie and Jessie all failing in Chee Dale.

Whats Next?

Its been a great week in the climbing world. Alex Honnold achieved the improbable, Steve Mcclure has completed his voyage of putting up Britains first 9b and I have passed my degree. Whats next?This question will be asked for the next year or until the hype has gone down. I can't speak for Steve or Alex. But for me its two months of sporadic climbing trips(including one to Poland, blog on that after) then one month of crying over shattered bank accounts and shattered dreams. Then I'll look for a way to fund my climbing and guitar playing. But this blog isn't about failed prospects and an uncertain future. Its just a series of anecdotes about a week of climbing. Enjoy

Failing on Remergance again Photo by Sam Stronge

Having finished my degree on the 30th May obviously the day after I went climbing. Another great day trip to Wales with Eric. An alpine start meant we were the first at the base of Tennis Shoe, which according to Oscar is the best route ever. We did the direct version to avoid the polished start. The direct is a 50mt variation at the start it gets HVS 4c but it should just say can you solo 4c. There was not much gear just a jammed nut about halfway up. It was easy climbing and the lack of faff regarding placing gear meant I could just run up it saving precious time. Eric linked the next two pitches one was great slabby crack climbing the other was gently angled walk. I got the final grit-esq pitch 15mts of lovely climbing in a great position. Good route not the best a bit disjointed in places. But good.

We then headed over to Javelin Buttress for a tasty E1 called Javelin Blade. A bit pessimistic because it looked wet I was surprised that the E1 was dry, but the VS escape route was soaking which adds some nice commitment. It was a pretty steady E1, a bit bold especially seen as I almost missed a crucial nut placement only placing it after reversing the start of the crux move and actually missing the last few piece's and had a tasty 10mt runout to the top. There is only 1 hard move and some really cool positions it was my first mountain E1 which is cool. It makes a great continuation to Tennis Shoe Direct as you get an easy warm up then the full frontal excitement of the E1.

Then we had the enjoyable/sketchy scramble down, grabbing the bags Eric was excited for a disgusting HS chimney called Monolith Crack. Been a relatively flat human I'm always down for a dirty chimney. The first two pitches were awkward but uneventful its all about the mad last pitch which is 10mt high chimney. But it was Erics lead so I got watch him spend 20 minutes trying to post himself into this chimney. Finally relinquishing he let me have a go and I just managed to squeeze in. Which was unfortunate as this meant I had to do the rest of the pitch. I am not the most proficient chimney climber and this was really wet and polished. Its the first time my tactic for route reading has been to stare directly into the darkness, in hope my eyes adjust to the dark and I can see some holds. After 40 minutes of up and down I managed to fall through the top hole. It was such a fun route. If you are flat and have a 30 inch waist its a great route, if you're any bigger let me know if you plan on doing it and I'll come and watch. Finishing the day in the slate mines for some sporty dessert. I got home at 1am and passed out.

Orpheus Wall HVS 5c Photo By Lydia Brannen

The next 4 days were spent in the Peak District. The first day was epic I got there later than planned mainly due to having been physically destroyed in the chimney. Upon arrival Freddie was stoked for the dangler a desperate looking E2. He crushed it. Then it was my turn I wanted to do Flying Buttress Direct an amazing HVS roof. Being a relatively weak person roof routes and pumpy lines have never been my speciality, but this was amazing its basically a jug ladder but through a roof. Bomber gear then some fun monkey through the roof. Definitely one of the more epic HVS's I've done. After this success I decided to continue the theme of facing my weakness and went for a route I failed to second 18 months ago, another roof style route called The Link it gets a low E1. Having no expectations was a great plan as I was pulling across the roof on these massive flakes my foot slipped and I cut loose. Although it looks epic its not the greatest or most helpful technique, thinking I was definitely coming off I almost resided to this fate, but from nowhere I discovered I still had quite a reserve of strength left and hauled my way through the roof. It was a great feeling to come that close to failing but persevere and discover I'm stronger than I thought. It was a great experience and I can imagine it'd be a good first E1 as the fallout zone is safe and its pretty juggy.

For the cherry on top of a cake of a day(editors note: that is a crap metaphor) we went over to the unconquerable's for some pure pump action. I was so psyched for the Right Unconquerable its such a pure line a massive flake that rises for 20mts providing a brutiful(a combination of beautiful and brutal. editors note that is a crap word) and historically significant HVS. I was quite intimidated and I slipped off the very polished starting crack, taking a bit more care I arrived at the base of the flake placing some gear and psyching myself up I set off on the adventure. I got absolutely rinsed, the hand holds are massive and there is all of the gear. But there are not feet and I got so pumped(not helped by trying to place a nut in a perfect cam slot at the top) it was a fight to the death and I just about made it and rolled over the top forearms screaming. It was so good. I'm starting to enjoy pumpy routes. The next day was some damp bouldering(Oscar managaged an 8a with combined tactics) and cafe indulging. Then Saturday was sunny so we went to Birchen edge for some pleasant and easy trad, upon arrival I noticed it was the perfect height for soloing. I lead 2 HVS's both pretty good but one move wonders the highlight was soloing 20 random routes from diff to vs it was a great day. Sunday was damp but we went to Bamford and I managed to solo Gunpowder Crack a pleasant jammng flake guarded by a disgusting 5b start and I lead a pumpy HVS called High Neb Buttress where I almost got attacked by pigeons. It was a great few days with great friends and we did some mega routes.

Embracing the dirtbag life Photo by Me

So whats next?

I'm going climbing.