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| Failing on Remergance again Photo by Sam Stronge |
Having finished my degree on the 30th May obviously the day after I went climbing. Another great day trip to Wales with Eric. An alpine start meant we were the first at the base of Tennis Shoe, which according to Oscar is the best route ever. We did the direct version to avoid the polished start. The direct is a 50mt variation at the start it gets HVS 4c but it should just say can you solo 4c. There was not much gear just a jammed nut about halfway up. It was easy climbing and the lack of faff regarding placing gear meant I could just run up it saving precious time. Eric linked the next two pitches one was great slabby crack climbing the other was gently angled walk. I got the final grit-esq pitch 15mts of lovely climbing in a great position. Good route not the best a bit disjointed in places. But good.
We then headed over to Javelin Buttress for a tasty E1 called Javelin Blade. A bit pessimistic because it looked wet I was surprised that the E1 was dry, but the VS escape route was soaking which adds some nice commitment. It was a pretty steady E1, a bit bold especially seen as I almost missed a crucial nut placement only placing it after reversing the start of the crux move and actually missing the last few piece's and had a tasty 10mt runout to the top. There is only 1 hard move and some really cool positions it was my first mountain E1 which is cool. It makes a great continuation to Tennis Shoe Direct as you get an easy warm up then the full frontal excitement of the E1.
Then we had the enjoyable/sketchy scramble down, grabbing the bags Eric was excited for a disgusting HS chimney called Monolith Crack. Been a relatively flat human I'm always down for a dirty chimney. The first two pitches were awkward but uneventful its all about the mad last pitch which is 10mt high chimney. But it was Erics lead so I got watch him spend 20 minutes trying to post himself into this chimney. Finally relinquishing he let me have a go and I just managed to squeeze in. Which was unfortunate as this meant I had to do the rest of the pitch. I am not the most proficient chimney climber and this was really wet and polished. Its the first time my tactic for route reading has been to stare directly into the darkness, in hope my eyes adjust to the dark and I can see some holds. After 40 minutes of up and down I managed to fall through the top hole. It was such a fun route. If you are flat and have a 30 inch waist its a great route, if you're any bigger let me know if you plan on doing it and I'll come and watch. Finishing the day in the slate mines for some sporty dessert. I got home at 1am and passed out.
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| Orpheus Wall HVS 5c Photo By Lydia Brannen |
The next 4 days were spent in the Peak District. The first day was epic I got there later than planned mainly due to having been physically destroyed in the chimney. Upon arrival Freddie was stoked for the dangler a desperate looking E2. He crushed it. Then it was my turn I wanted to do Flying Buttress Direct an amazing HVS roof. Being a relatively weak person roof routes and pumpy lines have never been my speciality, but this was amazing its basically a jug ladder but through a roof. Bomber gear then some fun monkey through the roof. Definitely one of the more epic HVS's I've done. After this success I decided to continue the theme of facing my weakness and went for a route I failed to second 18 months ago, another roof style route called The Link it gets a low E1. Having no expectations was a great plan as I was pulling across the roof on these massive flakes my foot slipped and I cut loose. Although it looks epic its not the greatest or most helpful technique, thinking I was definitely coming off I almost resided to this fate, but from nowhere I discovered I still had quite a reserve of strength left and hauled my way through the roof. It was a great feeling to come that close to failing but persevere and discover I'm stronger than I thought. It was a great experience and I can imagine it'd be a good first E1 as the fallout zone is safe and its pretty juggy.
For the cherry on top of a cake of a day(editors note: that is a crap metaphor) we went over to the unconquerable's for some pure pump action. I was so psyched for the Right Unconquerable its such a pure line a massive flake that rises for 20mts providing a brutiful(a combination of beautiful and brutal. editors note that is a crap word) and historically significant HVS. I was quite intimidated and I slipped off the very polished starting crack, taking a bit more care I arrived at the base of the flake placing some gear and psyching myself up I set off on the adventure. I got absolutely rinsed, the hand holds are massive and there is all of the gear. But there are not feet and I got so pumped(not helped by trying to place a nut in a perfect cam slot at the top) it was a fight to the death and I just about made it and rolled over the top forearms screaming. It was so good. I'm starting to enjoy pumpy routes. The next day was some damp bouldering(Oscar managaged an 8a with combined tactics) and cafe indulging. Then Saturday was sunny so we went to Birchen edge for some pleasant and easy trad, upon arrival I noticed it was the perfect height for soloing. I lead 2 HVS's both pretty good but one move wonders the highlight was soloing 20 random routes from diff to vs it was a great day. Sunday was damp but we went to Bamford and I managed to solo Gunpowder Crack a pleasant jammng flake guarded by a disgusting 5b start and I lead a pumpy HVS called High Neb Buttress where I almost got attacked by pigeons. It was a great few days with great friends and we did some mega routes.
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| Embracing the dirtbag life Photo by Me |
So whats next?
I'm going climbing.
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