The towel was still there.
Safely back at our tent after the harrowing walk home we planned the next days climbing. We would do another route on Sokalica. So the next morning we got up and headed to the base of the climb. But the psyche was surprisingly low. So in stark contrast from normal behaviour we decided to leave the adventure and have a chilled day sport climbing. So that's what we did, we spent hours failing on nice 20m high sport climbs. But the need to do something cool on Sokolica was still gnawing away at us, so after lunch we headed up to the base. However there were a couple of guys starting up the route we had eyed up and they were going really slow. With us not knowing the Polish for we climb quicker we couldn't ask politely to push in front. Onto plan D there was a crag we hadn't been to called Brandysowa behind the campsite that had a supposed 3 star 6b+, heading down I was more psyched than Edwin who just seemed to want a grilled lunch. Upon arrival he was right to be less than psyched the first half was a chossy scramble, then about halfway up it flipped from chossy gully of death into hardcore limestone slab climbing. This coincided with where the route exited the trees and emerged into full sunshine. This also coincided with me remembering that I wasn't actually a good climber and that this was kind of hard. After relentlessly bashing my head against it I let Edwin have a go, after a while he raised the high point a bit but eventually accepted heat stroke based defeat. Once suitably organised at the base we raced back for the weekend grill at the campsite. Unfortunately it closed at 6pm, gutted we drowned our sorrows in pierogis and went for a walk to a nearby bat cave. Getting to the gates we discovered it was actually a proper tourist attraction and wasn't open at 10pm, 8 miles later we were back in the tent and suitably destroyed from our late night leg day.
 |
| Prepared mountaineers Photo By Edwin George |
As another day dawned and after the obligatory breakfast of scrambled eggs, coffee and banana cake was obliterated we received a message from Kasia (a Polish climber who we had met a couple of days prior). She said she would be climbing at a crag called Kula in Dolina Koblyanska and we may come. So we trotted off down the road which was a much easier path to follow in the light. Upon arrival at the crag she pointed us to 3 climbs she thought we would like. They were awesome, muddy, slabby and best of all short. For us British climbers anything over 18m is too much and we pump out. We nailed the 5+ and 6a in quick succesion then did the 6b after two goes. All the routes were great and the top was a mud bank to the final boulder and then the lower offs, which I enjoyed but Edwin almost got his new shoes dirty which would've been a disaster. After success at the crag we decided we wanted to get Shitzroy in as well. It was amazing. We later found out its called Gran Bolekowiche and its pretty much a scramble. I'd say it was a British grade of VDiff it isn't bolted but that doesn't matter because soloing it is pretty safe, just be careful of the ants on the way down. We had a much needed lie down after and decided to try and climb a couple of routes. I dogged my way up something 6cish. I want to blame the pressure of the crowd watching for me blowing the onsight but I'm just crap. We also managed to find the worlds most polished climb it was practically marble but juggy and fun. In the UK it would definitely be a trad route but here it had a bolt every metre or so. Still unsure of bolting routes that could be done with gear hmm ethics. Unfortunately for this blog the walk back was uneventful mainly due to the remembrance of head torches.
 |
| Lost Photo By Edwin |
On our exploration day we had scrambled to the top of this crag in Dolina Koblyanska with a cross on top, we went to have a look at the valley from a good vantage point. We could see a ton of killer lines and a months worth of objectives. There was also an amazing looking line up the Cross Crag or Zabikon as it was actually called. So on the Monday we made the trip down to that line, its a fairly pleasant 4 that once again could of been done on trad gear, but we were on holiday so bolts make for a more chilled atmosphere. The bolts also meant I could race up the first couple of pitches and set up the belay before the final cool pitch on the main head wall. Edwin's amazing route reading lead him astray on the second pitch and found himself on a really cool and exposed 5, which was super chill easy and fun but wasn't technically on route. But once again we were on holiday so no need to stick religiously to the route(this doesn't mean I didn't rip into him for his route reading skills, he didn't hear the end of it).
 |
| Edwin Climbing Photo By Me |
From the top of Zabikon you can see this perfect blank piece of limestone. Psyched by the idea of desperate limestone blankness we headed over. Obviously the first thing I went for was the grotty hand crack and offwidth in the corner, both routes were bolted, once again unsure of this ethically but it made for a new experience. Note to those interested, limestone and gritstone offwidths are chalk and cheese, there are near to no rests on limestone as you just keep slipping back down but you get to keep all your skin so its not all bad. The hand crack was great fun and once again even more slippery than Michael Gove. Crisis happened when I got to a crucial jam and shoved my hand behind me for some chalky goodness, only to realise my chalkbag was closed. Unable to open it I just had to bite down and power through. Both routes were about 5 and would make pretty sound VS's. Turning our attention back to the blank face we picked the easiest line which came out at about 7a. Super polished and super fun I managed my hardest clip ever, somehow managing to clip a bolt of a two finger pocket with super skatey feet not a bad effort for a crap climber. Using team dog tactics we managed to push through to the top after an hours work. Then it started spitting which was all the encouragement we needed to go for pizza and beer.
 |
| Looking Over To Shitzroy Photo By Edwin |
On the Tuesday we went for our final trip over to Dolina Koblyanska to meet Kasia and Ana, they took us to a shady crag which was perfect on such a warm day. I started off by scrambling up this 4+ chimney in my approach shoes(La Sportiva TX4's for those interested). We then spent the rest of th day some cool if slightly chossy routes, before I ended getting really pissed off at a 6C+ I couldn't do in full sun. Why am I so shit? Finishing the day with a barefoot scramble up another 4, this with only minor ant attacks and me kicking a rock on the walk back down was a great end to the trip.
 |
| Home Photo By Edwin |
Back to the point of this blog, reviewing the Polish climbing areas. So my overall opinion on my trip to the Jura, its really good. The rock may not be perfect and there isn't the abundance of hard climbs like there is in Spain but its a really good alternative. I like to compare the rock to Peak Limestone but a little bit better, its not perfect but it still provides a great adventure. The climbing overall is perfect for someone operating in the average 6a sort of grade, somehow all objectives we set ourselves was amenable if a little challenging at times, making it perfect for us average climbers. The weather at this time of year is all so much more bearable than it would have been in Spain, its on a similar latitude to Font but being more continental its a bit less damp. The people are so friendly and the food and accommodation is the perfect price for a climber especially been so close to the climbing.
 |
| Zabikon Photo By Edwin |
So Poland it may not top everyone's list of the best sport climbing destinations. But if you're on a budget and looking for somewhere different its a great shout. Like Peak Limestone but with more easy classics a little more polished and so much rock you'll be spoiled for choice. If you want Pierogis, Pizza, Pivo and Perfect Projects Poland is for you.
No comments:
Post a Comment